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<DIV>Over the years I have build and covered close to 300 airplanes. The vast
majority were covered with some kind of iron-on material, mostly Monokote. While
my jobs are not on a par with Faye Stilly, they do look good, and more
important, they hold up </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>There are really no "secrets" but here is a short course.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It is important to make sure the surfaces are very well sanded and
vacuumed. Faye refers the this as "polishing" the wood. i usually go down to 600
paper in prep for covering. I then use a rag to get most of the dust off, then a
vacuum, then a tack rag. Then the parts are taken out of the workshop and all
covering is done up in my den, mainly to get away from any dust that might still
be floating around in the shop.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Starting with the lightest color, cover the intended area by working from
the edges and pulling the covering as tight as you can get it. When doing
demonstrations for our club, guys have told me they were surprized at just how
hard I pulled on the covering to try and stretch it over the surface. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I continue to do that for all colors. overlap them by 1/8th inch and make
sure they are well sealed to each other, but be careful not to put so much
pressure that you damage the wood underneath.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Once the sruface is done, go over it with a heat gun at least 3 times. On
the first pass I stay about 4 to 6 inches from the surface and just get
everything to start puckering. On the second pass yo want to be about 1 inch
from the surface and you want to see some real shrinking going on, but don't be
concerned with little problem areas at this time. On the third pass concentrate
on getting each color patch to lay perfectly smooth. be careful aoround seams.
They can be covered with a thin piece of card stock to protect them from the
direct heat.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Now it looks like you are done, but there is one more step for a surface
that you will probably never have to touch again. Seal it down to the surface.
Pick one color section to start with, and work from one corner of it to the far
corner, heating with the gun. If all is well you will get a slight rise, or
"bubble" as you heat that patch. This is assuming that you are over a solid
surface. Now do it again but follow the heat with a soft cloth pushing the
Monokote to the surface. The heat is activating the adheasive, and you will be
sticking the entire under side to the surface of the wood. This proceedure will
make the plastic look like a coat of paint, and will show up any imperfections
you have in the finished surface.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>A little trick here is the use of an air escape whole. Before you start
sealing the covering down use a needle to poke several holes in the covering at
the far end you will be working toward. This gives any trapped air a place to go
as you make your way toward the edge.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If you have any specific questions feel free to ask, or give me a call
if that would be better for you. 607-748-1846.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Terry T.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>On Fri, 11 Oct 2002 16:42:20 -0600 "Tomic, Stephen" <<A
href="mailto:stomic@CoorsTek.com">stomic@CoorsTek.com</A>> writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
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<DIV class=Section1>
<P class=MsoList><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy">Does anyone have any monocote covering
techniques/secrets <SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>. . . Do you
use grain filler, etc.</SPAN></FONT><FONT color=navy><SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; mso-color-alt: windowtext"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoList><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy">I’ve read Dick Hanson’s tip(s) but am
looking for other options!</SPAN></FONT><FONT color=navy><SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; mso-color-alt: windowtext"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoList><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy"><![if !supportEmptyParas]><![endif]> </SPAN></FONT><FONT
color=navy><SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; mso-color-alt: windowtext"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoList><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy"><![if !supportEmptyParas]><![endif]> </SPAN></FONT><FONT
color=navy><SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; mso-color-alt: windowtext"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoList><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy">Stephen Tomic</SPAN></FONT><FONT
color=navy><SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; mso-color-alt: windowtext"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoList><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy"><A
href="mailto:Set_62@hotmail.com">Set_62@hotmail.com</A></SPAN></FONT><FONT
color=navy><SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; mso-color-alt: windowtext"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoList><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy">NSRCA :3474, AMA
:742205</SPAN></FONT><FONT color=navy><SPAN
style="COLOR: navy; mso-color-alt: windowtext"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN class=EmailStyle15><FONT face=Arial color=navy
size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt"><![if !supportEmptyParas]><![endif]> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></P>
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