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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>I’ve used the sharpened tin can for
cutting wheel wells also. Just take a can of the desired diameter, cut
off the turned over lip, and the thin tin is sharp enough to cut the
foam. Use a twisting motion as you push the can down into the foam, with
the wing sitting in the shuck. I cut the wheel wells out before skinning
the wing, line the wheel wells with 1/64 ply, but I leave the foam in the wing
and remove it after I am done skinning the wing. For the servos, I use a dremel
tool with the routing attachment to route a pocket for the plywood “donut”
that goes beneath the wing skin. After skinning the wing, I cut away the
balsa inside the donut and then use the router to remove the foam from the
servo pocket. Both of these depend on having a template for the wing that
marks the location of the servo and wheel well so that you can find them after
skinning the wing.</span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'> </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>For cutting cores, I bought a 25 volt/2
amp transformer at Radio Shack, and used a normal light dimmer in series on the
primary side of the transformer. My bow uses Sig nichrome wire, which you
can buy at a hobby store for a couple of bucks in 5 foot lengths. I’ve
read posts to this list in the past saying the nichrome won’t work, it
stretches, etc. etc., but I have had great results with this setup. I get
perfect wing cores with straight, feathered trailing edges using this setup.</span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'> </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'> </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'> </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>-----Original Message-----<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>From:</span></b> discussion-request@nsrca.org
[mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org] <b><span style='font-weight:bold'>On
Behalf Of </span></b>KEVIN DUNCAN<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> </span></font><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>Sunday,
November 24, 2002</span></font><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'> </span></font><font
size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>3:48 PM</span></font><font
size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'><br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> NSRCA<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> Re: K.I.S.S. Hot Wire
Accesory??</span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt'> </span></font></p>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><font size=2 face=Verdana><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>I used a R/C Car charger with a
variable voltage dial. Just connect the wires to the output connector and
viola! If it has a digital readout, you can figure what voltage for each
application. I too built a setup like Bob Noll used and the car charger worked
just fine.</span></font></p>
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<div>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><font size=2 face=Verdana><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
</div>
<blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt;
margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><font size=2 face=Arial><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>----- Original Message -----</span></font></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in;background:#E4E4E4'><b><font size=2
color=black face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;
color:black;font-weight:bold'>From:</span></font></b><font size=2 color=black
face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> Thomas
C. Weedon</span></font></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><b><font size=2 face=Arial><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></font></b><font
size=2 face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'> Sunday,
November 24, 2002 7:33 AM</span></font></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><b><font size=2 face=Arial><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;font-weight:bold'>To:</span></font></b><font
size=2 face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>
discussion@nsrca.org</span></font></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><b><font size=2 face=Arial><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></font></b><font
size=2 face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'> RE:
K.I.S.S. Hot Wire Accesory??</span></font></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><font size=2 face=Verdana><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
</div>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><font size=2 face=Verdana><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>Steve,<br>
I wrote a bunch of articles for the K-Factor last year on how to do the<br>
things you want. Look up some of the issues. Also, I use a sharpened 3"<br>
tomato soup can to cut the wheel wells. Used it for years.<br>
<br>
<br>
Tom Weedon, NSRCA D4 VP<br>
AMA 2537, NSRCA 733<br>
IMAC 1810, WA8WAA<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: discussion-request@nsrca.org<br>
[mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org]On Behalf Of mrstev0922@aol.com<br>
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 7:13 PM<br>
To: discussion@nsrca.org<br>
Cc: MrSteve09@aol.com<br>
Subject: K.I.S.S. Hot Wire Accesory??<br>
<br>
<br>
Hey guys,...<br>
<br>
Currently I am constructing my first foam wing for a competition pattern<br>
plane. I have been banging my head against the wall for a week now,
trying<br>
to figure out how to hot wire cut the servo pocket and wheel wells, just the<br>
way Bob Noll does in his video.<br>
<br>
I went so far as to purchase Inconel wire from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty<br>
as well as a Homebuilders Hotwire kit. The hot wire kit was a
"bust"<br>
because<br>
it consisted of only a transformer and a dimmer switch and it was up to me<br>
to<br>
design and fabricate an electrical circut. Long story short,...
transformer<br>
got fried and no longer works!!<br>
<br>
Plan "B" was to use the Inconel wire with my son's HO Train
tranformer.<br>
Well,... that did little good because the wire barely got hot!! At least<br>
the<br>
train still works though, ha!!<br>
<br>
Then finally a friend loaned me his K.I.S.S. Hot Wire Accesory kit by Sam<br>
Turner. What a life saver that has been. Now I've just gotta get
one for<br>
myself; however I can't find them available anymore!! I can not access
Sam<br>
Turner's web site and his products are no longer available through Central<br>
Hobbies. Please don't tell me a great product like this is out of<br>
production??<br>
<br>
Can anyone tell me where to get Turners Hot Wire kit?? Or does anyone
have<br>
suggestion on how to build a foam cutter of my own??<br>
<br>
Thank you!!<br>
<br>
Sincerely,<br>
Steve Teerlinck<br>
Monson, Massachusetts<br>
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# and put leave discussion on the first line of the body.<br>
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