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<TITLE>Re: Stuck Rear Bearing</TITLE>
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Try ACE or similar hardware store for a hammer with a plastic head. Some come with one side plastic and one side hard rubber for about $4.50. These are perfect for banging on metal parts like crankshafts without buggering them up. Hardwood is OK to put between the target and a metal hammer, but you need too many hands. My $0.02.<BR>
<BR>
Bill<BR>
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From: "David Harmon" <k6xyz@attbi.com><BR>
To: <discussion@nsrca.org><BR>
Subject: RE: Stuck Rear Bearing<BR>
Date: Sun, Mar 2, 2003, 6:04 PM<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT COLOR="#0000FF"><FONT SIZE="2"><FONT FACE="Comic Sans MS">I do it the same way as both of you except I close the chuck on my drillpress and push it out.<BR>
Dave<BR>
</FONT></FONT></FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE="2">-----Original Message-----<BR>
<B>From:</B> <FONT COLOR="#0000FF"><U>discussion-request@nsrca.org</U></FONT> [<FONT COLOR="#0000FF"><U>mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org</U></FONT>] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Dave Smith<BR>
<B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 02, 2003 3:56 PM<BR>
<B>To:</B> <FONT COLOR="#0000FF"><U>discussion@nsrca.org<BR>
</U></FONT><B>Subject:</B> Re: Stuck Rear Bearing<BR>
<BR>
<FONT FACE="Arial">I have done it the same as Bob says,except I threaded the prop nut on to the shaft so it was flush with the end of the crank,then tapped the hardwood with a hammer.<BR>
</FONT></FONT> <BR>
<FONT SIZE="2"><FONT FACE="Arial">Dave<BR>
</FONT></FONT><BLOCKQUOTE>----- Original Message ----- <BR>
<B>From:</B> Bob Kane <<FONT COLOR="#0000FF"><U>mailto:getterflash@yahoo.com</U></FONT>> <BR>
<B>To:</B> <FONT COLOR="#0000FF"><U>discussion@nsrca.org</U></FONT> <<FONT COLOR="#0000FF"><U>mailto:discussion@nsrca.org</U></FONT>> <BR>
<B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 02, 2003 7:08 PM<BR>
<B>Subject:</B> Re: Stuck Rear Bearing<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Does the web on the crank completely cover the bearing? I have removed a stubborn bearing by opening the jaws of a bench vise so it contacted the bearing and not the crank, then tapped very gently on the crank with a small hammer, with a piece of wood to protect the end of the crank. The bearing was stuck because of little corrosion. Once the crank was cleaned up the new bearing slipped on easily. <BR>
<BR>
<B><I>Jerry Budd <</I></B><FONT COLOR="#0000FF"><U>jbudd@QNET.COM</U></FONT><B><I>></I></B> wrote: <BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE>Hi all,<BR>
<BR>
What's the best way to remove a rear bearing that's stuck on the <BR>
crankshaft? I went to change out the rear bearing on my OS140RX and <BR>
install one of the KSK stainless steel bearings that I have, and I <BR>
had to heat the case in the oven to get the crank out. When it came <BR>
out, the rear bearing went with it, and now it's stuck on the <BR>
crankshart. I'm thinking that I'll have to cut it off with a Dremel <BR>
cut-off wheel, but before I did that I was wondering if there were <BR>
any other "tricks" that I might try.<BR>
<BR>
Any ideas?<BR>
<BR>
Thx, Jerry<BR>
-- <BR>
___________<BR>
Jerry Budd<BR>
Budd Engineering<BR>
<FONT COLOR="#0000FF"><U>http://www.buddengineering.com<BR>
</U></FONT>=====================================<BR>
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</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
Bob Kane<BR>
<FONT COLOR="#0000FF"><U>getterflash@yahoo.com</U></FONT> <BR>
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