<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 4/2/2003 12:51:25 PM Eastern Standard Time, spbyrum@hiwaay.net writes:<BR>
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<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Subj:<B>RE: feather cut </B><BR>
Date:4/2/2003 12:51:25 PM Eastern Standard Time<BR>
From:<A HREF="mailto:spbyrum@hiwaay.net">spbyrum@hiwaay.net</A><BR>
Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A><BR>
To:<A HREF="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A><BR>
<I>Sent from the Internet </I><BR>
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Brian<BR>
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Try a larger harder wheel. I'm trying to learn, too. Wings are not too<BR>
bad. Stabs ok, too. I tried cutting a vertical fin. That didn't go<BR>
very well. The big difference between root and tip along with the very<BR>
short span make it very challenging.<BR>
<BR>
Steve Bryum</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
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Steve,<BR>
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There should be a way to use simple geometric principles to cut a very sort span, highly tapered wing such as a fin. Have you tried anchoring one end of the bow down, and only moving the other in a circular fashion. The anchored end will basically serve as the center of the circle. Depending on where you place the foam blank within the circle, you should be able to cut a very high taper and short span wih extreme accuracy.<BR>
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BTW, this is true for all tapered wings, except it becomes somewhat impractical for wide chord wing tips, because the circle center is sometimes 10 feet away from where the cut is made.<BR>
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Just an idea for you to mull over<BR>
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Matt Kebabjian</FONT></HTML>