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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Whip is right, just make sure the edges are ironed
down well. I clean the area</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>that will have trim on it with lacquer thinner and
then tack rag it to remove dust. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If</FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2> you have
enough lighting, you will see all the finger prints disappear after</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>cleaning </FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2>the base
surface.....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>X-Acto blades have a little oil on them, so wiping
them with a little alcohol or</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>other solutions to remove the oil is good. And
don't touch the adhesive side </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>of sharp/pointy sections of trim with
anything...common urge makes us lift the</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>sharp points with an X-Acto blade that has
oil on it...This is one of the </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>reasons some sharp/pointy edges
lift....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I use Monokote only and it takes about 230ish deg.
to activate the adhesive</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>with minimum shrinkage, which is what I use for
most areas...then I use an iron</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>without a sock at 270ish deg. for doing the
overlaps of top and bottom covering</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>at the L.E., etc......For Monokote on Monokote
using the Windex method, around</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>180ish deg. is the most I've used and it works
well....The Windex method will hold</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>very well even without heat.....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If you add a couple of drops of blue to a can of
K&B clear, it won't yellow like Whip ;-)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Okay, I got excited...it's covering stuff....I'll
end it now....I had a Troy moment ;-)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Amir</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"> </DIV><FONT face=arial,helvetica><FONT
lang=0 face=Arial size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF">In a message dated 4/30/03 9:31:52
AM Pacific Daylight Time, <A
href="mailto:junk@velocitus.net">junk@velocitus.net</A> writes:<BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE
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TYPE="CITE"><BR>What is the preferred method of sealing the edges of
Monokote or<BR>Ultracote? Back ten years ago I used to mix up K&B
Superpoxy clear with<BR>gloss harnened in a 1 oz cup, and brush with a nice
paint brush along the<BR>leading edges and corners, any place that would be
prone to lifting.<BR><BR>What else do you guys do, if anything, to seal
these edges?<BR><BR>-D<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>I have not been doing any
sealing, the key is to get the edges REALLY hot, they will stay down if they
are put down hot (speaking of monocote, I quit using Ultracote because is
doesn't seal as well) Any of the current clear topcotes PPG, DuPount etc
would work and I have used this to lay monocote trim on a glass fuse, better
than K&B because doesn't yellow.<BR><BR>Bob</FONT>
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