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<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" color=#0000ff>I always stuck my bearing
in the freezer night before doing this job and heated the case to take out both
old bearings. Use a wooden dowel checked for proper size before applying heat
and the new one drop right in after removing old bearings. Have used oven and
torch for heat. Using torch you want to keep the heat moving around the
perimeter of the case where bearing is and have 2 blocks of wood separated
proper distance to smack the case on to have old bearing drop right out.
I've never used or needed a bearing puller. Tap new bearing lightly with wooden
or small neoprene mallet to make sure it is seated flat and you should be all
set.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="MS Sans Serif"
color=#0000ff> </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" color=#0000ff>
Del K. Rykert<BR> AMA - 8928
<BR> NSRCA - 473<BR> Kb2joi -
General </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="MS Sans Serif"
color=#0000ff></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=bcarpenter@greenvilleisp.net
href="mailto:bcarpenter@greenvilleisp.net">Bill Carpenter</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, May 23, 2003 6:41 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: How to install drive washer
& retainer for YS 140s?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>I don't have a 140L, but I think I understand the
problem. It sounds like<BR>one of the bearings isn't yet home, and it's
holding the crank back a little<BR>- just enough to keep the thrust washer
from seating (assuming you have the<BR>correct bearings). Try locking
the crank in place by inserting a wooden<BR>dowel down thru where the piston
would be, so the crank won't turn, and<BR>tighten a prop on the crankshaft
until the bearing slips home. If this<BR>doesn't work, put the whole
shebang, including the installed prop in the<BR>freezer overnight to shrink
everything up, and then try tightening the prop<BR>again. If it still
doesn't come home, carefully heat the area around the<BR>bearings with a small
torch to expand that area, and continue trying to<BR>tighten the prop.
Make sure you're not trying to tighten up a tru turn nut<BR>on the front -
they bottom before the bearings come home. If all this<BR>doesn't work I
don't know what else to suggest.<BR><BR>Almost all the guys are at contests
this weekend, so you may not get any<BR>more help until Monday. Good
Luck<BR><BR>----------<BR>>From: "Ihncheol Park" <<A
href="mailto:PatternFlyer@msn.com">PatternFlyer@msn.com</A>><BR>>To:
"NSRCA" <<A
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A>><BR>>Subject:
How to install drive washer & retainer for YS 140s?<BR>>Date: Fri, May
23, 2003, 7:36 PM<BR>><BR><BR>> Hi, All,<BR>> I am having problem
installing the drive washer & retainer in my YS 140L.<BR>> I just
replaced all the bearings. Rear bearing didn't need much effort
at<BR>> all. I just pushed in with crank shaft. Front bearing
after installing the<BR>> oil seal was really tight, so I used crankshaft
and drive washer with retain<BR>> to push in the front
bearing.<BR>><BR>> All the bearings are in correctly. Now, the
drive washer does not stay on<BR>> with retainer.<BR>> When I tight the
prop nut with washer, crankshaft turns. prop can not hold<BR>> the
drivewasher.<BR>> What is the best way to make the drive washer stay
on?<BR>> I can not lock the drive washer to retainer.<BR>><BR>> I
gotta solve this before running the engine. Otherwise the prop & nuts
will<BR>> fly away.<BR>> Help~~<BR>><BR>>
Ihncheol<BR>><BR>><BR>> =====================================<BR>>
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