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<DIV><SPAN class=840451101-03072003><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Just
for clarification, the NACA ducts are the ones that were previously made by PTX;
Bolly makes no such beast. Precision bought the molds from Peter
Thannhauser. I've got them in my Piorun Medal in the belly pan and on the
nose - should be able to see how well they work this fall. If nothing else
they really look cool!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=840451101-03072003><FONT size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=840451101-03072003><FONT size=2>Wayne Powell<BR>Bolly Props
North America<BR><A href="http://www.bollyprops.com/"
target=_blank>http://www.BollyProps.com</A><BR>1-877-WEFLYRC
</FONT></DIV></SPAN>
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<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader><FONT face="Times New Roman"
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> discussion-request@nsrca.org
[mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org]<B>On Behalf Of</B> Ron Van
Putte<BR><B>Sent:</B> July 2, 2003 10:00 AM<BR><B>To:</B>
discussion@nsrca.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re:
Scoop-Making<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>John Ferrell described a technique for
obtaining air inlets/scoops. It looks like fun for people who like new
and different adventures in modelling. However, I prefer my technique:
contact Mike or Maureen Dunphy at Precision Aero Composites [phone:(662)
462 5480, e-mail <A class=moz-txt-link-abbreviated
href="mailto:mdunphy@avsia.com">mdunphy@avsia.com</A> or internet: <A
class=moz-txt-link-abbreviated
href="http://www.precisionaerocomposites.com">www.precisionaerocomposites.com</A>]
and order a set (3) of their Bolly NACA inlets. I plan to use a set on
Tony Stillman's new Panacea design, which Mike and Maureen will market and
will also be using a pair of the Bolly F3A carbon/kevlar wheel pants, which
they also sell. <BR><BR>Ron Van Putte<BR><BR><BR>John Ferrell wrote:<BR>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If you would like to dabble a bit in a small
glass project scoops are an ideal subject. Just about any epoxy will work
well. Check out the spoons available in housewares (avoid the kitchen
drawers unless you are batchelor or want to be one). You can make the mold
using a carved up spoon, play dough, paper mache,wood scraps, balsa or
whatver your imagination will provide. I like to hold the stuff
together with hot melt glue.Avoid polyester resin because it will probably
get hot enough to melt your mold. If you don't happen to have any suitable
glass fabric, scrap from the rag bag, or a handkerchief will do...these are
not structural parts. Use some kind of wax for mold release, I like paste
floor wax like I use on the table saw. Try to avoid a wax with silicon, it
will be very hard to paint otherwise. After waxing, spray with with hair
spray.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If your model is not destroyed taking it out of
the mold, you spent too much time on it!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>When you do the lay up, wax the mold at least 3
times, polishing each time. Spray liberally with hair spray. avoid runs,
they will require filling in the part. When you start the lay up in the mold
first paint it with a thin coat of the epoxy. That will assure a passible
finish. It takes longer, but small scraps of cloth are easier to fit in
place without wrinkles. try to make the fabric cuts at 45 degrees to the
threads, it will conform to the curves easier. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>You don't have much to lose with this size
project!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Fitting the scoops to the fuse:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Tape sandpaper to the fuse (smooth side
down).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Rub part carefully against the location to be
fitted.</FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>John Ferrell <BR>6241 Phillippi Rd<BR>Julian NC 27283<BR>Phone:
(336)685-9606 <BR><A
href="mailto:johnferrell@earthlink.net">johnferrell@earthlink.net</A><BR>Dixie
Competition Products<BR>NSRCA 479 AMA 4190 W8CCW<BR>"My Competition is
Not My Enemy"<BR></DIV>
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<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-stretch: normal; font-size-adjust: none">-----
Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228) 0% 50%; FONT: 10pt arial; font-stretch: normal; font-size-adjust: none"><B>From:</B>
<A title=rcaerobob@cox.net href="mailto:rcaerobob@cox.net">Bob
Pastorello</A> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-stretch: normal; font-size-adjust: none"><B>To:</B>
<A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">NSRCAMail</A> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-stretch: normal; font-size-adjust: none"><B>Sent:</B>
Wednesday, July 02, 2003 7:22 AM</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-stretch: normal; font-size-adjust: none"><B>Subject:</B>
Scoop-Making</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Decided I want to use a scoop on my latest
for crankcase/bearing cooling. I know where to locate it on the
cowl, but have no idea of shape, angle, if any "ducting" is needed.
It looks like the scoops out there just direct air based on their shape
alone...without ducting.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Anyone have any
suggestions/ideas on this?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> What to make the scoop out
of?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> And how to determine what
size is "right" ?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Any insights much appreciated....thanks in
advance.</FONT></DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><BR>Bob Pastorello, Oklahoma<BR>NSRCA 199,
IMAC 1320, AMA 46373<BR><A
href="mailto:rcaerobob@cox.net">rcaerobob@cox.net</A><BR><A
href="http://www.rcaerobats.net">www.rcaerobats.net</A></FONT></DIV><FONT
face=Arial size=2></FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT>
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