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<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=884372704-09072003>Bob...here is how I do it....</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=884372704-09072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=884372704-09072003>Never use a torch.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=884372704-09072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=884372704-09072003>I remove everything from the crankcase and put it in
the oven at 350 for about 1/2 hour. Then, insert the front bearing by tapping
lightly with a maple block being careful not to cock it. Next, insert the shaft
with the bearing already pressed on and put on the prop driver and a sawed off
wood prop. Tighten the prop nut pretty tight and check for freedom of rotation.
If ok, I put back in the oven for another 1/2 hour to 'normalize' the case,
shaft and bearings. This REALLY helps to get all the rotating parts exactly
lined up like it wants to be. Take out and set rear down and let it cool on its
own. Check for free rotation after cooling and that's the best it's gonna
get!</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
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class=884372704-09072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=884372704-09072003>To fit bearing on the crank....</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=884372704-09072003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=+0><SPAN class=884372704-09072003><FONT face="Comic Sans MS"
color=#0000ff size=2>I use a couple of blocks of maple under the overhanging
edges of the bearing so that the shaft counterweight is suspended off the
drill press table, then I close the chuck of the drill press and press the tip
of the threaded end of the shaft and the bearing comes right off. </FONT>
<DIV><SPAN class=242541522-02072003><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff
size=2>When I put the new bearing on the shaft I ensure that it's all the way on
by putting the threaded end of the shaft through the drill<SPAN
class=884372704-09072003> </SPAN>press table <SPAN
class=884372704-09072003>center </SPAN>hole and us a length of music wire up the
rear of the shaft or a maple block on the counterweight and press the
bearing on.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=242541522-02072003><SPAN class=884372704-09072003><FONT
face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2>Or, if I am lazy, just tap the shaft
into the bearing with a small hammer and maple block. I prefer to press it
though.</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></DIV></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=2>Regards<BR><BR>Dave
Harmon<BR>NSRCA 586<BR>K6XYZ@comcast.net<BR>Torrance, Ca.</FONT>
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<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader lang=en-us dir=ltr align=left><FONT
face=Tahoma size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>
discussion-request@nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org] <B>On
Behalf Of </B>Bob Pastorello<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, July 08, 2003 7:55
PM<BR><B>To:</B> NSRCAMail<BR><B>Subject:</B> New Bearing
Re-Assembly<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I know there are several methods of reassembling
the crankshaft/main bearing into the crankcase. How about posting the
method(s) you like best?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Don't forget about "how to fit
the bearing on the crank"....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>TIA....</FONT></DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>
<DIV><BR>Bob Pastorello, Oklahoma<BR>NSRCA 199, IMAC 1320, AMA 46373<BR><A
href="mailto:rcaerobob@cox.net">rcaerobob@cox.net</A><BR><A
href="http://www.rcaerobats.net/">www.rcaerobats.net</A></DIV>
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