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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Gerald, thanks for the reply, your description was
quite clear. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>How do you deal with the pull-pull horns for the
rudder (especially considering that the rudder has a larger bevel to allow
larger deflection)?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Keith</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=gw@gwair.com href="mailto:gw@gwair.com">GW</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, September 02, 2003 9:31
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Control horns, is it just me
or... ?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>What I do on ailerons and elev.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Install 1/2" dowel in surface. starting roughly
1/8" from LE bevel.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Set up drill press plate for a 10
degree table tilt. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Tape moveable surface into the aileron(elev)
cutout shuck (bottom of surface up) </FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2>WIth
it in its shuck and the 10 degree angle on the Press, drill 1/8 hole
through the Dowel starting at about the top of the beveled surface . This will
put the exit near the rear of the dowel on the top of surface, but it does not
matter. Shoot a 6/32 hardened bolt though the dowel, It will be tight, but
thats what were looking for, let it tap its own threads as your run it in. Go
about 3/4 the way into the surface and stop. cutoff the excess with the cutoff
wheel.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Attach your favorite aileron connector and clevis
now, and you will be very close to the hingeline.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Or you can do as a majority do, and dont worry
about it. Youcan use your CRC meter to get the deflections the same. Our
really neat computer radios have taken alot of the need to build perfect out
of the equation. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I like to do it right myself, but thats
just me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>This is just one way to do it with minimal
trouble, and less expense. Im sure others will have a better approach that
works for them.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I can draw CorelDraw or ACAD file that
would illustrate this better if anyone has an interest.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>GW<BR>Gerald Williams<BR>Email : <A
href="mailto:gw@gwair.com">gw@gwair.com</A><BR>Webpage: <A
href="http://www.gwair.com">www.gwair.com</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Support Tony Stillman District 5 VP<BR><A
href="http://webpages.charter.net/nneville/nneville/">http://webpages.charter.net/nneville/nneville/</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><BR> </DIV>
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style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=tkeithb@comcast.net href="mailto:tkeithb@comcast.net">Keith
Black</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, September 02, 2003 8:57
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Control horns, is it just me
or... ?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>When it comes to control horns for pattern
planes it seems to me that some of the most commonly used choices have a
major flaw.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>On my last plane I used the MK Aluminum
Horns on all surfaces except for the rudder where I used the IM pull-pull
horns. Both of these are nice horns except they have a major flaw when using
a pull-pull setup. The flaw is that the little black plastic arm that screws
onto the horn and connects to the clevis is so short that it doesn't extend
out over the hinge line. I know that with pull-pull systems it isn't
*absolutely* necessary for the connection to be exactly above the hinge, but
the further back it is the more slack there will be in the cable that is not
pulling. In my opinion with these horns the connection point is too
far away from the hinge unless the horn is virtually mounted on the
control surface bevel (especially when it comes to rudder). This can easily
be seen in these "instructions" for installing the MK horns <A
href="http://www.centralhobbies.com/buildingtips/mkhorns/mkhornsinst.html">http://www.centralhobbies.com/buildingtips/mkhorns/mkhornsinst.html</A>.
Notice that in this picture there surface isn't beveled yet and the horn is
almost on the edge.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>On my new plane I wanted to avoid this problem
so I did some searching to find a better solution. To begin with I looked
for a longer arm to connect to the MK horn, one that would extend out to the
hinge line. I found two options from Sullivan but both require too big of a
horn thread (6-32 and 8-32). My search then led me to two other choices that
seem to be good alternatives. The first is the ZNLine aluminum control
horns, but these are apparently only distributed by ZNLine (<A
href="http://www.znline.com/produits.php?langue=english&cle_menus=1025879382&cle_data=1025901639">http://www.znline.com/produits.php?langue=english&cle_menus=1025879382&cle_data=1025901639</A>)
which means an international order. The other solution I've found is by
</FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><FONT
face=Arial size=2>RC Model Enterprises</FONT> <FONT face=Arial
size=2>(</FONT></FONT><A
href="http://home.att.net/~rc-enterprises/rcme_014.htm">http://home.att.net/~rc-enterprises/rcme_014.htm</A>)
but these control horns seem very pricey!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If anyone could point me to a longer 3mm
connecting arm that will fit on the MK and IM horns I'd be happy (BTW, I've
used the MK BB connectors on the MK horn and they still aren't really long
enough).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Is it just me, or have others experienced this
dilemma as well?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Keith Black</FONT></DIV>
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