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<DIV>I've found that for Monokote over Monokote that "the Windex method" works
well. Apply some Windex or Cinch window cleaner to allow you to
position the piece, then use a business card or piece of posterboard to gently
squeege the fluid out. The piece will adhere well as the fluuid underneath
dries, which takes about a half day before ironing it down. However, it
can then be done without introducing any trapped air bubbles. I use a
piece of (fresh) thin TP or silkspan over the piece and just gently iron it down
with a flat trim iron, starting in the middle and working my way out. You
can see through and the heat transfer is very good were contact is made, minimal
where it is not, so it tends to avoid any bubbling up of surrounding
covering.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I've heard of an alternative method of adhering the piece, which is to use
trim solvent around the edges and then just leave it. No ironing and
it supposedly works great. The other variation is to use the trim iron
only around the edges. I suppose that works too, but have always opted for
ironing the entire piece down.</DIV>
<DIV>Ed</DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=Eric.Henderson@gartner.com
href="mailto:Eric.Henderson@gartner.com">Henderson,Eric</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, March 18, 2004 1:37
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Monokote help required</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=719012918-18032004>The other day I had a piece of that
self-adhesive new monkeycoat trim sheet that had no glue on certain parts of
it. I was using it for canopy trim and was convince it was all me until I
peeled the whole thing off and touch tested the offending area. The sheet was
defective in certain areas but not others.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=719012918-18032004></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=719012918-18032004>On covering. I am often forced to use the
pre-use of a woodpecker to avoid bubbles on existing covering. Also if you pre
heat the covering by holding the iron about 1/8" away you can stretch it
on like a rubber glove. Wear gripper gloves and have the</SPAN><FONT
face=Tahoma><SPAN class=719012918-18032004><FONT face=Arial> job secured
or held by a volunteer...</FONT></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><SPAN
class=719012918-18032004></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><SPAN class=719012918-18032004>Lately, mainly due to
ARF's, I have migrated to Altercate. It does cover other coving with less
hassle except for the dark blues - they suck.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><SPAN
class=719012918-18032004></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><SPAN
class=719012918-18032004>Regards,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><SPAN
class=719012918-18032004><BR>Eric.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma><SPAN
class=719012918-18032004></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma><SPAN
class=719012918-18032004></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma><SPAN
class=719012918-18032004> </SPAN>-----Original
Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> discussion-request@nsrca.org
[mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Dean
Pappas<BR><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, March 18, 2004 1:10 PM<BR><B>To:</B>
discussion@nsrca.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> RE: Monokote help
required<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><SPAN class=601093216-18032004>Hi All,</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=601093216-18032004>Andre' ... good to hear from you. I was in
a bit of a rush the other day when I mentioned Stu Chale and his brilliant
Monokote technique.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=601093216-18032004>After a 600 sandpaper or better finish, he
would solidly tack down all the edges of the color patch he was working on,
except for an inch-wide gap at the last corner, or shortest edge. That's the
vitally important part. He would then take a heat gun, a heavy glove and a
rolled up chunk of soft cotton "T" shirt and chase the air out of the pocket,
"ironing down" the hot monokote with the cotton pad. He starts from the end
opposite the opening, and works very small areas, at a time. The idea is to
get the monokote shrunk and every bit as hot as if you'd put the iron on it
for several seconds, then quickly steam-roller it down with the pad. That
way, the glue really bonds everywhere, but doesn't have an ironed to the
wood-grain look. Stu was adamant that if you relied on the gasses from the
adhesive escaping thru the wood, then you would be disappointed.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=601093216-18032004></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=601093216-18032004>I covered an LA-1 using his method in '88
and that airframe is still floating around. The wing is still drum tight, but
the stab, which was covered with my usual technique turned to the typical
prune.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=601093216-18032004></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=601093216-18032004>I hope this helps someone,</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=601093216-18032004></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=601093216-18032004>Dean P.</SPAN></DIV>
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<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT
face=Tahoma>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Andre Bouchard
[mailto:akfai@gci.net]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, March 17, 2004 11:55
PM<BR><B>To:</B> discussion@nsrca.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: Monokote help
required<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>As Earl and I had in the past commiserated quite a bit about this
issue, I thought I would chime in.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>First, the disclaimer: I am not a Monokote expert, just a long time
sufferer.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Having used Monokote for 33+ years, I can say that it does not
stick as well as it once did. It was good product 10 years+ ago.
I was able to Monokote a fiberglass fuselage once and it looked pretty
good (Earl will testify). No way can I do that today as it does
not stick as well.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I can say from personal experience that Earl's recommendation
("micro-channels") works very well. It probably cuts in half the
time required to lay a piece of Monokote--less chasing of bubbles.
There are guys out there who can Monokote a glass ball. I admire
them. Their keys to success appear to be: a proper temperature iron(s)
and patience, patience and more patience. For the less patient folks
(me), the sandpaper trick is a good short-cut.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Aside: I got into a real problem once with air trapping on some
wings skinned with polyurethane glue. The expansion of
the glue resulted in almost zero permeability to air through the
wood; I usually find some permeability with epoxy skinned wings
(at least with my work). Peeled off a lot of Monokote on that
one.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Ultracote: Great product. It is much easier to use, but I still
like the shine of Monokote next to the PPG.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Regards,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Andre'</DIV></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=EHaury@aol.com href="mailto:EHaury@aol.com">EHaury@aol.com</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, March 17, 2004 7:13
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Monokote help
required</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>A disclaimer first - I don't claim to be an expert with Monokote!
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>That being said, my experience is that the "polished" super smooth
wood presents a surface akin to MK over MK, no avenues for gasses to
escape and bubbles. The fix is to take a new (sharp) piece of 320 wet/dry
and make one pass over wood span wise and one pass chord wise. The
"micro-channels" cut by the 320 will allow gasses to escape when you to
use just sufficient heat to activate the MK adhesive. The "grooves" cut by
the sanding will not show through the finish. Be sure and clean after
sanding with a vacuum, compressed air, and tack rag. I also find white to
be less tolerant than other colors. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Earl</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>