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<DIV>I am in the same boat as Andre', not an xpert, but I have beeen using the
stuff for 35 years. I used MK for the first time back in 1969 in Viet
Nam!!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I keep hearing about the formation of bubbles! HOW?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If you use a very simple technique, you should NEVER have bubbles.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>ONLY attach the monokote at the edges of the structure, or the edge of the
color if it does not extend to the edge of the structure.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Once the entire permiter has been sealed down, then it can be shrunk using
the gun and hot air, OK, now you will have ONE air bubble to get rid of.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Poke two or three holes in one extreme end of the color you are working,
with a pin, or better yet, a sewing needle. I keep a needle installed in a pin
vise next to my covering board and use it thru-out the covering process.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Now you can start heating the MK from the end opposite the holes. As the
material gets hot enough to activate the adhesive, go over the material with a
soft cloth. TF also sells a mitten that works very well. Just continue to work
the "bubble" toward the holes. If you happen to trap an island bubble along the
way, just prick one edge and seal it down again.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>For those of you who saw my Synergy at the WRAMs show a few weeks ago, you
saw how tight the cover is. This plane was finished about a year ago, flown all
last summer, and I spent about 10 minutes touching up a few minor wrinkles
before taking it tothe show.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If you want to put MK over MK. Cut out the trim piece and lay it on the
base. Use the heat from your hand to get it to stay in position while working
out any trapped air. Then use your iron at a reduced heat setting, about 200
degrees, and carefully working from one edge to the other, you should not
develop any more bubbles. If you do, reach for the needle again.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It all goes back to what someone else said about having patience.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I have done my share of Ultrakote coverings, probably 20 or more, along
with over 200 MK, and I really prefer the MK. I cna more easily get good edges,
and I too like the shiny colors. The UK is a little easier to work around
compound curves, but I don't have a problem with MK doing that.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Hope this helps a few of you. If you have any specific questions or
comments you can give me a call, or contact "off Line".</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Terry T.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>On Wed, 17 Mar 2004 19:54:31 -0900 Andre Bouchard <<A
href="mailto:akfai@gci.net">akfai@gci.net</A>> writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
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<DIV>
<DIV>As Earl and I had in the past commiserated quite a bit about this issue,
I thought I would chime in.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>First, the disclaimer: I am not a Monokote expert, just a long time
sufferer.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Having used Monokote for 33+ years, I can say that it does not stick
as well as it once did. It was good product 10 years+ ago. I
was able to Monokote a fiberglass fuselage once and it looked pretty good
(Earl will testify). No way can I do that today as it does not
stick as well.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I can say from personal experience that Earl's recommendation
("micro-channels") works very well. It probably cuts in half the
time required to lay a piece of Monokote--less chasing of bubbles. There
are guys out there who can Monokote a glass ball. I admire them.
Their keys to success appear to be: a proper temperature iron(s) and patience,
patience and more patience. For the less patient folks (me), the
sandpaper trick is a good short-cut.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Aside: I got into a real problem once with air trapping on some
wings skinned with polyurethane glue. The expansion of
the glue resulted in almost zero permeability to air through the
wood; I usually find some permeability with epoxy skinned wings (at
least with my work). Peeled off a lot of Monokote on that
one.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Ultracote: Great product. It is much easier to use, but I still
like the shine of Monokote next to the PPG.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Regards,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Andre'</DIV></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=EHaury@aol.com href="mailto:EHaury@aol.com">EHaury@aol.com</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, March 17, 2004 7:13
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Monokote help
required</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>A disclaimer first - I don't claim to be an expert with Monokote!
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>That being said, my experience is that the "polished" super smooth wood
presents a surface akin to MK over MK, no avenues for gasses to escape and
bubbles. The fix is to take a new (sharp) piece of 320 wet/dry and make one
pass over wood span wise and one pass chord wise. The "micro-channels" cut
by the 320 will allow gasses to escape when you to use just sufficient heat
to activate the MK adhesive. The "grooves" cut by the sanding will not show
through the finish. Be sure and clean after sanding with a vacuum,
compressed air, and tack rag. I also find white to be less tolerant than
other colors. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Earl</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
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