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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>You might have to get a little creative on the stab
tube. You might find someting suitable in the PVC plumbing area like toilet
supply lines. PVC softens pretty easy with a paint stripper heat gun. Use a
couple pliers to form a ring to fit. Chip Hyde and Dick Hanson both have
recommended that stabs be retained with tabs at the fuse sides. This allows for
stab incidence adjustment with shims. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I am no fan of stab tubes. It is too easy to get
tail heavy!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>John Ferrell <BR><A
href="http://DixieNC.US">http://DixieNC.US</A><BR></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=divesplat@yahoo.com href="mailto:divesplat@yahoo.com">Ed Deaver</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, June 26, 2004 11:51
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: cf tubes</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Will try this. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>What size PVC do you use for the stab tube? </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanx</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>ed<BR><BR><B><I>John Ferrell <<A
href="mailto:johnferrell@earthlink.net">johnferrell@earthlink.net</A>></I></B>
wrote:</DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I prefer the PVC alternative.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>1- Slice a ring (about 1/4 inch) from a
slightly oversized piece of PVC tubing.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> 2- cut a segment out of the ring (about
1/4 or 3/8 inch) so that you can compress it a little and slide it inside
the tube. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> 3- drill a little undersize, sharpen a
screw to make it self tapping. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Cheap, easy to replace, field repairable
(rotate the ring & re-tap). Also, the PVC does not seem to allow a loose
screw to come out. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>John Ferrell <BR><A
href="http://dixienc.us/">http://DixieNC.US</A><BR></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=divesplat@yahoo.com href="mailto:divesplat@yahoo.com">Ed
Deaver</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">NSRCA Disscussion</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, June 26, 2004 5:32
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> cf tubes</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>To save weight, I am switching to the PBG CF wing and stab tube.
In this plane I already have a 4*40 bolt in the wing and stab as my
fastening method.</P>
<P>Can you drill and tap these tubes successfully wicked with thin CA
after tapping? Realize the stab tube will only be taken off
rarely. One of the wing bolts will be removed on a regular
basis.</P>
<P>Or, do I have to glue a piece of ply to the inside of the tubes and tap
that?</P>
<P>Before it comes up, I do not want to change my mounting system unless
it absolutely needed.</P>
<P>Thanx in advance.</P>
<P>ed</P></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>