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<P>Here's a thought<SPAN class=410572923-28062004> that may be easier to
implement</SPAN>...how about a longer screw driver to get your hand beyond the
prop? <SPAN class=410572923-28062004>You can make one from a piece of music
wire. </SPAN>Press a piece of brass tubing onto the needle valve to create
a socket. This will hold the <SPAN class=410572923-28062004>long
</SPAN>screw driver in place while making the adjustment.</P>
<P><SPAN class=410572923-28062004>Scott</SPAN></P>
<P><SPAN class=410572923-28062004><FONT
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT
face=Tahoma>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>
discussion-request@nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org]<B>On Behalf
Of </B>Wayne Galligan<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, June 28, 2004 6:36
PM<BR><B>To:</B> discussion@nsrca.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: Webra
1.45<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>You can accomplish the same thing by using a 2-56 socket head
screw. To make it fit in the needle assembly, like in my OS, chuck
the head of the screw in your drill a spin it up then use your Dremel
with a sanding drum and grind it down to the size you need. Use what ever
length screw suits the setup.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Wayne G. </DIV>
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style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=drykert@localnet.com href="mailto:drykert@localnet.com">Del
Rykert</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, June 28, 2004 5:27
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Webra 1.45</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="MS Sans Serif">How about brazing the cutoff head of
allen bolt to head of needle then adjust with ball driver which allows more
prop clearance if you don't want to go with remote
needle.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="MS Sans Serif"></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="MS Sans Serif">
del</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=d.wartel@comcast.net href="mailto:d.wartel@comcast.net">David
Wartel</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, June 22, 2004 11:12
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Webra 1.45</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow" size=3>Is there a replacemnet needle valve
available for this engine that has a provision for an extension? The stem
is short and only has a slot for adjusting with a screwdriver. Being so
close the the prop, this is a little hazardous with a cowled
engine.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow" size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow" size=3>Alternatively, is there a simple way
to add an extension to the
needle?</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>