<DIV>Lately Ive found its helpful to slide the sleeve up enough to provide some support to the piston as you pull on the wrist pin, it would also be convenient to have an old sleeve to use as a tool for this. You want to be careful not to damage the sleeve of course. Also recently I have been heating the bearing to install it on the crank, I just put it in the oven at 200-230F along with the case. I take the bearing out of the oven once its heated and drop it down on the crank shaft, it seats right up to the counter weight no force required, then pop crank and bearing assy into the freezer w/ counter weight down. Once crank and bearing is cooled I take the case from the oven and knock the old bearing out, then I take the crank w/ new bearing holding it vertical I lower the still hot case onto the bearing/crank assy. Set this aside to cool with the front of the engine down so everything stays towards the front. </DIV>
<DIV>Gloves are nice too,,,,,,lol</DIV>
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<DIV>Hope this is helpful.</DIV>
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<DIV><BR><B><I>Jerry Budd <jbudd@QNET.COM></I></B> wrote:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">>OK-- while we are talking Webras, any secrets in changing the bearings.<BR>><BR>>With over 20 gals through mine, I finally detected some movement. <BR>>I'm trying to get the connecting rod off the crank pin, but it gets <BR>>about 3/4 out and doesn't want to go further with "normal" force.<BR>><BR>>Yes, the piston sleeve is out and the conn rod is slid as far to the <BR>>rear as it appears to go. You don't pull the piston wrist pin or <BR>>anything special like that?<BR>><BR><BR>Uh, yes you do.<BR><BR>Remove the rear wrist pin retaining clip, clean away any carbon <BR>buildup from the aft wrist pin access hole in the piston, and then <BR>thread one of the head screws into the wrist pin. Grab the screw <BR>head with some pliers and pull - HARD. The key to this is lightly <BR>scrapping away any carbon buildup from the aft wrist pin hole on the <BR>piston
(I use an X-Acto knife to do this).<BR><BR>It's not like the OS where you can remove the rod from the crank pin <BR>without removing the wrist pin.<BR><BR>Jerry<BR>-- <BR>___________<BR>Jerry Budd<BR>mailto:jbudd@qnet.com<BR>=====================================<BR># To be removed from this list, go to http://www.nsrca.org/discussionA.htm<BR>and follow the instructions.<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE>