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<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Jon,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>If you remove the throttle barrel you will see
the air bleed screw really only controls the size of the air hole in the intake
tube side of the throttle barrel. What Buddy is talking about is...remove the
air bleed screw all the way...And drill this hole slightly bigger clean it all
up and de-bur the holes...then re-install the air bleed screw....The result is
you now have more adjustment. Its really pretty simple procedure...But actually
pretty rare that its needed. <FONT color=#000000 size=2>Another possible
solution is that you reg is a little too rich. This really controls mid-range
stuff. I would lean the reg a little say 1/4-1/2 turn, then re-set
everything else....On the pressure regulator IN is Lean....Don't be confused
with the DZ...the DZ doesn't have a reg its an actual fuel pump...And IN is rich
on the DZ's. This leaner reg will probably solve you mid range problem if it
doesn't then drilling the hole should help...</FONT>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV> Perhaps your fuel, and prop
combo are resulting in the need like the Buddy and crew. When you remove the
barrel you will see the hole with the end of the screw in it. If any of the hole
is blocked off by the screw then your hole can be bigger by adjusting the screw
further out.....But when the screw reaches about 3 turns open the hole is max
size...If its still rich then I suggest drilling it...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Always remove the throttle barrel out the side
with the air bleed, and then insert back tracking the same way. There is a
throttle barrel seal...DO NOT run that seal across the hole for the throttle
barrel stop screw. Sometimes this hole has a bur on it on the inside where it
was tapped for the thread. This bur will or can cut or knick the seal and it
will leak. So just remember the seal is on the air bleed side of the barrel(opp
the throttle arm)....So remove the arm and push out...then insert the arm side
first...Some light oil help get it back in place without damage to the
seal.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>This air bleed used to be a problem back when
the 120NC and SC first hit the market. The size of the hole was too small and
there was not a screw in the hole to make adjustments. I was running the motors
up at 6000ft in Denver and we found in our thin air the air bleed holes had to
be bigger...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>A little bigger like 2 drill sizes works if
drill is needed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Troy Newman</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=wise@alaskalife.net href="mailto:wise@alaskalife.net">JonAlan
Wise</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, August 20, 2004 10:22
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: YS 1.40 Sport</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Buddy, Can you explain this fix? I have a new 140 sport that
has this problem. I called YS Performance and talked to them about it they
told me this was the fix. I told them I would send it in but maybe I could do
it myself. Could you explain? Thanks Jon Wise
<P><A href="mailto:BUDDYonRC@aol.com">BUDDYonRC@aol.com</A> wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE="CITE"> <FONT face=Arial><FONT color=#8000ff><FONT
size=-1>Bob</FONT></FONT></FONT><FONT face=Arial><FONT color=#8000ff><FONT
size=-1>The 140-Sport is stronger than the old 140-FZ, It has the 140-L
Carb, Piston and the new rotary valve now used on the 140-DZ they have gone
back to pressure through the crank shaft to the diaphragm which also
improves lubrication to the cam area similar to the old air chambers the
only problem we have seen, and there are five of them being used locally is
that the hole in the throttle barrel on the low end side needs to be drilled
out to 1/8" diameter to eliminate the mid range from loading up. we are
running Magnum 1-1/2 fuel, 16x11APC and turning 8400 to 8800 two of these
are on Temptations and two on my original designed Eagle One Larry Mercer
was third in Advanced at the Nat's with his.</FONT></FONT></FONT><FONT
face=Arial><FONT color=#8000ff><FONT size=-1>Buddy
Brammer</FONT></FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>