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<DIV><SPAN class=552393921-25102004><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff>I
use the same...plumb line from the ceiling for the fin.........then use a simple
dumpy level to level out wings and stabs. I fill the plastic tube with Manometer
fluid, but water with a bit of food dye will do the same.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=552393921-25102004><FONT face="Comic Sans MS"
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=552393921-25102004><FONT face="Comic Sans MS"
color=#0000ff>Tom</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> discussion-request@nsrca.org
[mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Fletcher,
Richard<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, 26 October 2004 4:59 AM<BR><B>To:</B>
'discussion@nsrca.org'<BR><B>Subject:</B> RE: Building
Lasers<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=128485818-25102004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>The
best way I have seen to line up a rudder post is to use a plumb line hanging
from the ceiling.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=128485818-25102004></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=128485818-25102004></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=128485818-25102004></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=128485818-25102004><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>Rich</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=128485818-25102004></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=128485818-25102004></SPAN> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader lang=en-us dir=ltr align=left><FONT
face=Tahoma size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>
discussion-request@nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org] <B>On
Behalf Of </B>Wayne Galligan<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, October 25, 2004 2:55
PM<BR><B>To:</B> discussion@nsrca.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: Building
Lasers<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Keith,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>On the square for lining up the rudder
post. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If you have perpendicular lines layed out on your
table you just lay the square on the line that is perpendicular to the
fuse. This way you can tilt the square forward or back(in the case of a
canted rudder post) and still have a square post. Of course a scribed
line in the center of he post is needed. I use the Great Plains center
scribe for this as it will make a center line that will conform to a
tapering hinge area.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Wayne G.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=tkeithb@comcast.net href="mailto:tkeithb@comcast.net">Keith
Black</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, October 25, 2004 1:24
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Building Lasers</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> think lasers are hugely helpful in some
cases. I find them particularly helpful when trying to draw a straight line
on an unlevel surface, or a particularly large area such as a line across an
entire room. An example of an unlevel surface for modeling would be drawing
a straight line right down the center top of a fuselage from the top of the
fin to the front of the nose, or when drawing a line down the side of the
plane. In both of these cases you're working with a curved surface and the
laser will follow the contour (be sure it's lined up correctly).</FONT>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The down side to lasers I've found are: One,
the laser I have has a relatively thick beam as compared to the accuracies
we need, between 1/16th" and 1/8th" depending on distance. It's harder to be
exact that you would think. Second is that you can sometimes be misled when
the beam goes across surfaces that curve further away or closer to the
source of the beam. This will distort the beam unless it's exactly even
with the location you wish to draw the line. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>After messing with lasers in the past to try
and do alignment I feel the best way to align the stab is to have a level
table, put a scribe line on the rudder post and use a square to make sure
the fin is perfectly perpendicular to the table. Then when mounting the stab
use a height gage to make sure the stab is exactly the same height from the
table at all points (front corners, back corners, center fronts, center
backs). This will yield a perfectly aligned stab, height wise at least. You
also need to make sure the stab tips are aligned equal distance from
some center point in the front of the plane (I won't go into this, the best
bet is to buy Bob Noll's tapes).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>What I sometimes find difficult in this process
is eyeballing the square and the rudder post to make sure indeed the fin is
exactly 90 degrees to the table. In some cases you can butt the square right
up to the rudder post, but in other cases you can't do this, or the rudder
post is at an angle. This is when my eyes play tricks with me since the
square isn't up against the scribe line. In this case a laser may be useful,
however remember that the laser must be perfectly lined up behind the
rudder post (side to side) or the angle of the laser combined with
an angled rudder post will cause the line not to be true.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>For the alignment of the main wing it's
necessary to use some type of measuring gadget, like Bob Noll describes, to
make sure the wing tips are equal distance from the stab tips, but when it
comes to the wing tips being lined up height wise to the stab tips I think
this can be done more accurately using the eyeball than with any measuring
tool (at least the tools I have). If you stand ten of fifteen feet in front
of the plane and position yourself exactly in the middle of the fuse you can
raise and lower your head and see if the wings are even with the stab. Also
do this from behind the plane. This can be done with incredibly accuracy. In
fact, I've done it using measuring tools and afterwards found that my tools
couldn't get it as accurate as my eyeball. And since you've made sure the
stab is correct it's a good measure for the primary wing (I set my stab
first). </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I've used the a laser to confirm my eyeball
measurements for the wings being level with the stab, but due to the
thickness of the beam, and the fuzziness around the edge of the beam, it's
tough to get it to the accuracy of my eyes.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>BTW, I didn't pioneer these methods. It's
thanks to other modelers that have shared their approaches to doing things
that I know this. Out of all the different methods that have been suggested
to me these are the ones that I find work the best.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>For anyone who's new to building, or just wants
more tools for their building arsenal, I strongly recommend Bob Noll's
tapes. The one for alignment is called "Perfect Airframe Alignment". You can
order them at 610-746-0106. He has a set of four tapes that go through many
of the difficult parts of building a pattern plane.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Keith
Black</FONT></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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