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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Since we are using nylon clevis that will self
thread why not use a fine thread # 6 rod or bolt( or metric equivalent
) for the control horn if you want more precision.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Wayne G.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=tkeithb@comcast.net href="mailto:tkeithb@comcast.net">Keith Black</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 30, 2004 2:16
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Elev. Pull pull
Question</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I've used these control arms too and personally I
think they're great. I understand what Lance is talking about regarding the
"look", but after studying it carefully I realized that it only looks funny
because the arm sticks out so far and is fairly close to the surface.
Mechanically it's no different that if you had a post sticking straight up
from the hinge. I believe if they were mounted a bit further from the surface
(in other words on a longer post) they wouldn't look funny. As to the stress
angles, Lance has a point that there will be more stress at the location the
black plastic hooks onto the threaded post, but I feel they will easily hold
up to this stress and it's not a concern. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hey, who really cares if it plays tricks on your
eyes as long as it works! Personally I don't spend much time staring at
the control horns anyway. ;-)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Cat's Meow? Maybe not, but darn close. The only
thing that keeps them from being the Cat's Meow in my book is the </FONT><FONT
face=Arial size=2>6/32 threads which don't offer as precision of adjustments
as 4/40 or the MK horns. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Lance's suggestion of offsetting the control arm
at the servo is perfectly valid also.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Keith Black</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=patterndude@comcast.net href="mailto:patterndude@comcast.net">Lance
Van Nostrand</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 29, 2004 11:15
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Elev. Pull pull
Question</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Eddie,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Welcome to D6. You already were a D36'er
but now your assimilation is complete.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I could have saved you the agony. Tried
to do the same thing about 6 months ago with the same outcome. I
wanted them to screw to my own 6-32 threaded rods so I could set the rod
3/4" behind the hinge line. Paid the big bucks for the set and used
the long arms anyways. HOWEVER, it didn't work out. The long
3/4" reach of these "overhang" pieces looked fine with my rudder at neutral,
but when the surface deflected they formed a weird angle with the pull-pull
cable and almost hit the fuse. I didn't like the look. I no
longer think these are the cats meow. The fix was to use the small white
nylon old-style pieces but offset the control arm at the servo end.
Looks better and no weird stress angles on the cables.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>--Lance</FONT></DIV>
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