<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I've used these control arms too and personally I
think they're great. I understand what Lance is talking about regarding the
"look", but after studying it carefully I realized that it only looks funny
because the arm sticks out so far and is fairly close to the surface.
Mechanically it's no different that if you had a post sticking straight up from
the hinge. I believe if they were mounted a bit further from the surface (in
other words on a longer post) they wouldn't look funny. As to the stress angles,
Lance has a point that there will be more stress at the location the black
plastic hooks onto the threaded post, but I feel they will easily hold up to
this stress and it's not a concern. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hey, who really cares if it plays tricks on your
eyes as long as it works! Personally I don't spend much time staring at
the control horns anyway. ;-)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Cat's Meow? Maybe not, but darn close. The only
thing that keeps them from being the Cat's Meow in my book is the </FONT><FONT
face=Arial size=2>6/32 threads which don't offer as precision of adjustments as
4/40 or the MK horns. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Lance's suggestion of offsetting the control arm at
the servo is perfectly valid also.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Keith Black</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=patterndude@comcast.net href="mailto:patterndude@comcast.net">Lance
Van Nostrand</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 29, 2004 11:15
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Elev. Pull pull
Question</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Eddie,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Welcome to D6. You already were a D36'er
but now your assimilation is complete.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I could have saved you the agony. Tried to
do the same thing about 6 months ago with the same outcome. I wanted
them to screw to my own 6-32 threaded rods so I could set the rod 3/4" behind
the hinge line. Paid the big bucks for the set and used the long arms
anyways. HOWEVER, it didn't work out. The long 3/4" reach of these
"overhang" pieces looked fine with my rudder at neutral, but when the surface
deflected they formed a weird angle with the pull-pull cable and almost hit
the fuse. I didn't like the look. I no longer think these are the
cats meow. The fix was to use the small white nylon old-style pieces but
offset the control arm at the servo end. Looks better and no weird
stress angles on the cables.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>--Lance</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>