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<DIV>Sure Keith, no I don't buy new equipment every year. The longest period is
probably with Alliance. I started flying the model in 2001and stopped
flying it after the 2003 season. According to my log, 468 flights in the 2+
year span. I check things every few months as a rule just to make sure things
are tight etc. All servos in the fuse (original install) were fine throughout
this period. They are still in the plane. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Wing servos had developed a slight amount of slop but wasn't bad
enough to tear down. Being used elsewhere now since the wing is down for
refinish.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Pull-pull on rudder and elevator, steel rod on throttle, 1/8" carbon rods
on ailerons. Note that the original rudder and stab were discarded in favor of
lighter units. Also note that cable I use is unique: braided Kevlar with teflon
tape wrapping. I made this material. Very forgiving set-up, and with light
control surfaces, less force transfers to the servo. Servos are a mix 4001,
4131, 8231 and 8411, plus a retract servo (403?). 8411 on rudder. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The servo bay in this model was equipped with a lite ply tray, a one piece
unit that covered the whole bay. Secured to the fuse with probond. I think the
one piece tray helps also. Engine mount is the standard Hyde type that I make.
Originally saw the procedure on Bob's web site and have made these ever since.
Very simple and very inexpensive.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>MattK</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 12/1/2004 3:00:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
tkeithb@comcast.net writes:</DIV>
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<DIV>>> I have yet to change gears on a rudder servo or have parts come
loose. And rudder centering is fine.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Matt, can you please clarify this statement? Is this because you get a
new plane with new servos each year, or are you saying that you go multiple
years without every changing servo gears? </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>What are the most flights you have on any one rudder servo, and what type
of servo.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Keith Black</DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mailto:Rcmaster199@aol.com
href="mailto:Rcmaster199@aol.com">Rcmaster199@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=mailto:discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 30, 2004 7:28
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Pull-Pull servos</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>
<DIV>
<DIV>Hi Jim, the horn on the rudder should be as long as you can
bare that will result in minimal slack cable syndrome. I normally
use a 3" long 6-32 bolt, and bend it slightly to place the horns on the
hinge line. On the kits I've built, I typically discard the stock rudder and
build a lighter version. I shoot for a finished weight around 45 grams or
less for this size rudder. I keep the cables snug but not too tight.
NOT like a guitar string. I have yet to change gears on a rudder servo
or have parts come loose. And rudder centering is fine.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Matt</DIV></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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