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<DIV>Hi Jim, the horn on the rudder should be as long as you can bare that
will result in minimal slack cable syndrome. I normally use a 3" long 6-32
bolt, and bend it slightly to place the horns on the hinge line. On the kits
I've built, I typically discard the stock rudder and build a lighter version. I
shoot for a finished weight around 45 grams or less for this size rudder. I
keep the cables snug but not too tight. NOT like a guitar string. I have
yet to change gears on a rudder servo or have parts come loose. And rudder
centering is fine.</DIV>
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<DIV>Matt</DIV>
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<DIV>In a message dated 11/30/2004 6:44:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jivey61@bellsouth.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
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size=2>Guys<BR>Another discussion about pull-pull systems. I use pull-pull on
the rudder and compared to the elevator servo the rudder servo gets worn and
loose at the top bearing much quicker than the elevator servo.The cables are
not too tight and are setup correctly so far as ackerman is concerned.The
rudder being much bigger than the elevators may cause some of this problem.
More momentum...<BR>I have used the JR top post brace before, but it can't be
used with the 8411's without some mods.<BR>Any input or
solutions?<BR><BR>TIA<BR><BR>Jim Ivey</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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