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<DIV>Hi Matt,</DIV>
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<DIV>Braided kevlar & teflon tape - wow, sounds like neat suff, and also a serious craftsmanship exercise to make it. I'm using vinyl coated kevlar from ACP- certainly easier, but maybe your braided cable is even better?</DIV>
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<DIV>Later, Ron Lockhart</DIV>
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<DIV>Sure Keith, no I don't buy new equipment every year. The longest period is probably with Alliance. I started flying the model in 2001and stopped flying it after the 2003 season. According to my log, 468 flights in the 2+ year span. I check things every few months as a rule just to make sure things are tight etc. All servos in the fuse (original install) were fine throughout this period. They are still in the plane. </DIV>
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<DIV>Wing servos had developed a slight amount of slop but wasn't bad enough to tear down. Being used elsewhere now since the wing is down for refinish.</DIV>
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<DIV>Pull-pull on rudder and elevator, steel rod on throttle, 1/8" carbon rods on ailerons. Note that the original rudder and stab were discarded in favor of lighter units. Also note that cable I use is unique: braided Kevlar with teflon tape wrapping. I made this material. Very forgiving set-up, and with light control surfaces, less force transfers to the servo. Servos are a mix 4001, 4131, 8231 and 8411, plus a retract servo (403?). 8411 on rudder. </DIV>
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<DIV>The servo bay in this model was equipped with a lite ply tray, a one piece unit that covered the whole bay. Secured to the fuse with probond. I think the one piece tray helps also. Engine mount is the standard Hyde type that I make. Originally saw the procedure on Bob's web site and have made these ever since. Very simple and very inexpensive.</DIV>
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<DIV>MattK</DIV>
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<DIV>In a message dated 12/1/2004 3:00:47 AM Eastern Standard Time, tkeithb@comcast.net writes:</DIV>
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<DIV>>> I have yet to change gears on a rudder servo or have parts come loose. And rudder centering is fine.</DIV>
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<DIV>Matt, can you please clarify this statement? Is this because you get a new plane with new servos each year, or are you saying that you go multiple years without every changing servo gears? </DIV>
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<DIV>What are the most flights you have on any one rudder servo, and what type of servo.</DIV>
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<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Keith Black</DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=mailto:Rcmaster199@aol.com href="mailto:Rcmaster199@aol.com">Rcmaster199@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=mailto:discussion@nsrca.org href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 30, 2004 7:28 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Pull-Pull servos</DIV>
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<DIV>Hi Jim, the horn on the rudder should be as long as you can bare that will result in minimal slack cable syndrome. I normally use a 3" long 6-32 bolt, and bend it slightly to place the horns on the hinge line. On the kits I've built, I typically discard the stock rudder and build a lighter version. I shoot for a finished weight around 45 grams or less for this size rudder. I keep the cables snug but not too tight. NOT like a guitar string. I have yet to change gears on a rudder servo or have parts come loose. And rudder centering is fine.</DIV>
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<DIV>Matt</DIV></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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