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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>You don't need to drill and tap the backplate.
These is a much simpler method that does not mark or change the engine
externally should you decide to sell it later etc. (Also that is a thin
backplate to be tapping!)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Looking from the rear of the engine, the top left
backplate bolt can be replaced with a standard OS 1.40 EFI bolt/pressure-nipple.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>They cost about $6 and your local hobby shop can
get them from Great Planes etc. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Remove the backplate and run a 1/16" drill
through the center of the threaded part into the crankcase. I put a piece
of brass tube over the drill-bit to protect the threads in the crankcase.
(You can see, in the casting the metal that is there for the pressure
tap of the 1.60 FI.) You can do this without taking the engine apart. Just stuff
some paper towel into the crankcase and also vacuum afterwards.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If you decide to later decide to dispense with the
pressure tap just put the crankcase bolt back in, No harm no
foul!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have used the Perry pump and the Cline
regulator on a bunch of OS 1.60's. The Perry's had problems - three of them
- and the Clines worked like clockwork - five of them. Go figure?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Eric.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=randy10926@comcast.net
href="mailto:randy10926@comcast.net">randy10926@comcast.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org @nsrca.">discussion@nsrca.org @nsrca.</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, December 02, 2004 11:11
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> FW: OS160FX setup</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>It seems to me that tapping the backplate for crankcase pressure is
common to most of the options. So that is a good place to start. I
seemed to have deleted the past email on how to do this. Can someone
describe it again?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Randy</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">--------------
Forwarded Message: -------------- <BR>From: <A
href="mailto:randy10926@comcast.net">randy10926@comcast.net</A> <BR>To: <A
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A>
(discussion@nsrca.org @nsrca.) <BR>Subject: OS160FX setup <BR>Date: Thu, 02
Dec 2004 16:01:50 +0000 <BR>
<DIV>Looks like too many choices for a non-mechanic like me. But I am
really tired of watching others fly in the contest, while I nurse my
engine. Or almost as bad, nursing my engine while I am flying the
sequence. I am looking for a very reliable, consistent setup.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Having got that off my chest, I wonder if anyone has figured out how
far back from the engine you can go with a bladder tank? Seems to me
that having a 18oz tank next to the firewall has to result in trim
changes during the flight.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>How do you pressurize a hopper or header tank? Is crankcase
pressure too much if you are running a hopper tank.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Randy</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>