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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I put the system in my Temptation. I was lucky in
the fact that I had 2 sets of tubes at the time. One tube from each set was
tight or would bind. So I used one from each set on the Temp and it is slick
but, I don't know what to do with the other 2. I have a set of rods to use on
another plane but unless I get some "good" tubes there is no need. Anyone else
seem this?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Tom</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=kerlock@comcast.net href="mailto:kerlock@comcast.net">Mike Hester</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 04, 2005 6:33
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: DEPS (was RE: MK Dual
Elavator)</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>HAHAHA....."roaches"...... =)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Anyway, I'm trying this system out myself in my
new roach. I installed it like you, when the fuse was still a box, and it did
take a lot of tweaking and fussing to get the friction to a level of
"acceptable". But for the way this fuse is made, it just seems like it could
be the best way to go.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>So, I'm wondering about lubricant of some kind.
Dry graphite type does sound good, and I am wondering about silicone
spray....I'm not sure about the compatibility of this stuff. It's straight
silicone, but would it gum up or react with the graphite? I should know this,
but I only use the stuff for lubricating the slides on cable/free weight
machines. It works liek a charm for that, but I'd hate to screw up this
plane.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Anybody know for sure? I know somebody
does...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>-Mike</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=js.smith@verizon.net href="mailto:js.smith@verizon.net">Scott
Smith</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 04, 2005 4:35
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> DEPS (was RE: MK Dual
Elavator)</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>DEPS is hands down the best elevator system in my opinion.
Also, I would like to thank Troy for all his efforts in getting out a
very nice, complete setup. However, I think it can be made better with
the Teflon sleeves. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>I'm doing two Central installs in a couple Patriot roaches and I'm a
little disappointed with both installs. Neither are as friction free
as last year's CST kit. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>I
had the luxury of installing these while the fuse was still an open
box. My support sleeves are about 21" long and I'd say you could
measure the bend at the halfway point at less than a 1/4".
The push rods hit the center of the MK arms on the elevator (I haven't cut
them to length yet.) For all practical purposes, they are straight and
dead on to the horn. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>Yet there seems to be a lot of friction that needs to be
overcome to move the assembly. Once moving, it moves
easily. As such, I'm concerned about
centering.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>I
was happy to see the graphite has worked for others and it may be just
the ticket. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
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<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>
discussion-request@nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org]<B>On
Behalf Of </B>Troy A. Newman<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 04, 2005
3:32 PM<BR><B>To:</B> discussion@nsrca.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: MK Dual
Elavator Bellcrank & Pushrod?<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Brian,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>sorry to hear you had some trouble with the
guides on the DEPS. We worked pretty hard on getting the system to
be easy to install and friction free. You are correct that any
bending or curving in the system will cause it to bind up as stated in the
instructions for the DEPS. The Teflon sleeves have their own
problems and what was happening is guys would wind the thread too tight on
the Teflon sleeve and crush it. This would cause friction points along the
length of the Teflon guide even it was dead straight. So the hard plastic
guide kept this from occurring. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The key to both system is getting the
pushrods at a straight shot to the control horns. NO bends no curves. If
you install it this way it will be friction free. The right fuse exit
location is so very important. I use a 4ft long straight edge to connect
the dots from the servo connection location to the elevator control horn.
I do this on both the side of fuse For the vertical location and angle and
then the belly of the fuse for the fore and aft exit location. I use
masking tape and project the lines to where I need to dremel
the slot.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>This exit location will be very different
depending on the location of the elevator servo up front and will also
depend on the width of the fuse at the tail and where the elevator control
horns are. So you need to have both mounted so you can align the rods to
pass right by the connection points. No bending them over to
it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>A rough idea is my Supremes' have the exits
about 10.5" forward of the elevator hinge line. A narrow fuse like a Focus
of Temptation this exit will be slightly back further. The key is getting
the slots in the right spot so it doesn't bend. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>NOW some solutions I have heard of and never
tried. Take the pushrods and slightly sand them with some 320 grit. "roll"
the rod in your fingers....The ideal is not to sand diameter down but
sometimes the pushrods can have some ridges on them from manufacturer. I
think they are Pultruded (sp?) and this can cause some slight
imperfections in the surface but I'm not sure. I have seen
a few of these with the CST rods. Never caused me any problems
but I can see if the guides are curving it could.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Next a little messy perhaps at
first...Graphite dry lube like pine wood derby wheel lube works pretty
good. Squirt a little in the tubes and the then install the pushrods. I
heard of a guy doing this and he said it made all the difference. If you
have to remove a glue joint on your pushrods to get it apart just heat the
metal fitting up with a solder iron or a Bic lighter the glue will soften
and you can remove the fitting. A little sand paper on the end where the
glue was and the pushrod system will come right out of the guides from
the front. Then deal with the guides and glue the ends back on.
I recommend clean the old glue out of the hole. I use a drill...but be
careful the titanium ends are very tough and you can break off a drill bit
if you are trying to remove metal. I then use rubbing alcohol to clean it.
Dry with a bic lighter and then glue it on again. Works fine.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Next is sometimes you can get paint and crud
in the tubes at the exits and this will cause some binding. Clean out the
exit tube with a small round file....I have even used a long 2-56 pushrod
threaded on one end to plunger the tubes and clear some debris. I
even saw one where the guy used some Thin CA to attach something and it
ran down the CF rod and into the sleeves. It didn't glue it in place but
it did cause quite a bit of binding. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have not heard of guys having problems.
Usually all you hear form this list and RCU is the bad stuff and rarely
does the good comes through. I get tons of emails from guys that love it.
I wondering if you try some of the fixes above and they solve your issue.
I just installed this system on friends Angel Shadow and it works great!
By the way Exits on it were about 11" forward of the elevator hinge line
and they are a straight shot servo to the control horns.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>As for weight I just stuck the plastic tube
guides on a scale and the Teflon guides as I have both. The Teflon
one 4ft long was 6grams The Plastic one 40" long was
5grams....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The 0.070" solid CF rods can't run
unsupported for the length of the fuse. They will bow up when put under
load. But inside the guides they are stiffer and more solid than any
system I have ever seen or flown. This includes cables, MK, Dave Brown
Fiberglass arrow shaft( the black one is fiberglass and not CF) And the CF
rods done like the Dave brown fork with a bushing support in
the back. and supports in the middle too. The elevators get no
differential between sides when under load and many of the other
system do. This was the whole reason for using the DEPS system. Eliminate
differential side to side and have a friction free slop free system that
was light.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Troy</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=auto7832@bellsouth.net
href="mailto:auto7832@bellsouth.net">Brian Billings</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 04, 2005
11:33 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: MK Dual Elavator
Bellcrank & Pushrod?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Speaking of the CF push rod set ups, I
would like to share a little info. I just finished installing my second
CF. elev. pushrod assem. in a Impact, the first was in my Majestic. In
the Majestic I got the DEPS setup from CST seen here <A
href="http://www.cstsales.com/CCPush-rodKits.htm">http://www.cstsales.com/CCPush-rodKits.htm</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>This kit comes with a thin walled Teflon
outer case and even with a slight bow or arc in the assem. the
system remains Very friction free.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>For the Impact I purchased the kit
from Central and it comes with plastic outer cases and these were
difficult to get smooth and friction free, the slightest bend or arc
made the movement very stiff and as a matter of fact, I could not even
use them and ended up using hollow CF. rod for the outer case which
worked very well but slight bends or arcs are out of the
question. Just my personal experience, yours may
differ.</FONT></DIV>
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