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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Troy, I hope I did not come across as bashing the
Central Hobbies DEPS but I did have better luck with the Teflon cases. As I
said, the system installed in my Majestic is soooooo smooth even with a slight
bow in the rods. The one I am putting in the Impact has the hard plastic cases
and they are not nearly as forgiving. I do remember when setting up the Majestic
I had to cut the system apart and redo before installation because I wrapped the
thread to tight. Either system will work fine ounce you learn the tricks. I love
the way it functions when done and it eliminates any elev. tracking
problems as long as the control horns are exact. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>No insult intended! Brian</FONT> </DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=troy_newman@msn.com href="mailto:troy_newman@msn.com">Troy A.
Newman</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 04, 2005 3:31
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: MK Dual Elavator Bellcrank
& Pushrod?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Brian,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>sorry to hear you had some trouble with the
guides on the DEPS. We worked pretty hard on getting the system to
be easy to install and friction free. You are correct that any bending
or curving in the system will cause it to bind up as stated in the
instructions for the DEPS. The Teflon sleeves have their own
problems and what was happening is guys would wind the thread too tight on the
Teflon sleeve and crush it. This would cause friction points along the length
of the Teflon guide even it was dead straight. So the hard plastic guide kept
this from occurring. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The key to both system is getting the pushrods at
a straight shot to the control horns. NO bends no curves. If you install it
this way it will be friction free. The right fuse exit location is so very
important. I use a 4ft long straight edge to connect the dots from the servo
connection location to the elevator control horn. I do this on both the side
of fuse For the vertical location and angle and then the belly of the fuse for
the fore and aft exit location. I use masking tape and project the lines to
where I need to dremel the slot.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>This exit location will be very different
depending on the location of the elevator servo up front and will also depend
on the width of the fuse at the tail and where the elevator control horns are.
So you need to have both mounted so you can align the rods to pass right by
the connection points. No bending them over to it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>A rough idea is my Supremes' have the exits about
10.5" forward of the elevator hinge line. A narrow fuse like a Focus of
Temptation this exit will be slightly back further. The key is getting the
slots in the right spot so it doesn't bend. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>NOW some solutions I have heard of and never
tried. Take the pushrods and slightly sand them with some 320 grit. "roll" the
rod in your fingers....The ideal is not to sand diameter down but sometimes
the pushrods can have some ridges on them from manufacturer. I think they are
Pultruded (sp?) and this can cause some slight imperfections in the surface
but I'm not sure. I have seen a few of these with the CST
rods. Never caused me any problems but I can see if the guides are curving it
could.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Next a little messy perhaps at first...Graphite
dry lube like pine wood derby wheel lube works pretty good. Squirt a little in
the tubes and the then install the pushrods. I heard of a guy doing this and
he said it made all the difference. If you have to remove a glue joint on your
pushrods to get it apart just heat the metal fitting up with a solder iron or
a Bic lighter the glue will soften and you can remove the fitting. A little
sand paper on the end where the glue was and the pushrod system will come
right out of the guides from the front. Then deal with the guides
and glue the ends back on. I recommend clean the old glue out of the
hole. I use a drill...but be careful the titanium ends are very tough and you
can break off a drill bit if you are trying to remove metal. I then use
rubbing alcohol to clean it. Dry with a bic lighter and then glue it on again.
Works fine.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Next is sometimes you can get paint and crud in
the tubes at the exits and this will cause some binding. Clean out the exit
tube with a small round file....I have even used a long 2-56 pushrod threaded
on one end to plunger the tubes and clear some debris. I even saw one
where the guy used some Thin CA to attach something and it ran down the CF rod
and into the sleeves. It didn't glue it in place but it did cause quite a bit
of binding. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have not heard of guys having problems. Usually
all you hear form this list and RCU is the bad stuff and rarely does the good
comes through. I get tons of emails from guys that love it. I wondering if you
try some of the fixes above and they solve your issue. I just installed this
system on friends Angel Shadow and it works great! By the way Exits on it were
about 11" forward of the elevator hinge line and they are a straight shot
servo to the control horns.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>As for weight I just stuck the plastic tube
guides on a scale and the Teflon guides as I have both. The Teflon one
4ft long was 6grams The Plastic one 40" long was 5grams....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The 0.070" solid CF rods can't run unsupported
for the length of the fuse. They will bow up when put under load. But inside
the guides they are stiffer and more solid than any system I have ever seen or
flown. This includes cables, MK, Dave Brown Fiberglass arrow shaft( the black
one is fiberglass and not CF) And the CF rods done like the Dave
brown fork with a bushing support in the back. and supports in the
middle too. The elevators get no differential between sides when under
load and many of the other system do. This was the whole reason for using the
DEPS system. Eliminate differential side to side and have a friction free slop
free system that was light.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Troy</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=auto7832@bellsouth.net href="mailto:auto7832@bellsouth.net">Brian
Billings</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 04, 2005 11:33
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: MK Dual Elavator Bellcrank
& Pushrod?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Speaking of the CF push rod set ups, I would
like to share a little info. I just finished installing my second CF. elev.
pushrod assem. in a Impact, the first was in my Majestic. In the Majestic I
got the DEPS setup from CST seen here <A
href="http://www.cstsales.com/CCPush-rodKits.htm">http://www.cstsales.com/CCPush-rodKits.htm</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>This kit comes with a thin walled Teflon outer
case and even with a slight bow or arc in the assem. the system remains
Very friction free.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>For the Impact I purchased the kit from
Central and it comes with plastic outer cases and these were difficult
to get smooth and friction free, the slightest bend or arc made the movement
very stiff and as a matter of fact, I could not even use them and ended up
using hollow CF. rod for the outer case which worked very well but slight
bends or arcs are out of the question. Just my personal experience,
yours may differ.</FONT></DIV>
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