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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Brian,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>sorry to hear you had some trouble with the guides
on the DEPS. We worked pretty hard on getting the system to be easy
to install and friction free. You are correct that any bending or curving in the
system will cause it to bind up as stated in the instructions for the DEPS.
The Teflon sleeves have their own problems and what was happening is guys
would wind the thread too tight on the Teflon sleeve and crush it. This would
cause friction points along the length of the Teflon guide even it was dead
straight. So the hard plastic guide kept this from occurring. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The key to both system is getting the pushrods at a
straight shot to the control horns. NO bends no curves. If you install it this
way it will be friction free. The right fuse exit location is so very important.
I use a 4ft long straight edge to connect the dots from the servo connection
location to the elevator control horn. I do this on both the side of fuse For
the vertical location and angle and then the belly of the fuse for the fore and
aft exit location. I use masking tape and project the lines to where I need to
dremel the slot.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>This exit location will be very different depending
on the location of the elevator servo up front and will also depend on the width
of the fuse at the tail and where the elevator control horns are. So you need to
have both mounted so you can align the rods to pass right by the connection
points. No bending them over to it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>A rough idea is my Supremes' have the exits about
10.5" forward of the elevator hinge line. A narrow fuse like a Focus of
Temptation this exit will be slightly back further. The key is getting the slots
in the right spot so it doesn't bend. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>NOW some solutions I have heard of and never tried.
Take the pushrods and slightly sand them with some 320 grit. "roll" the rod in
your fingers....The ideal is not to sand diameter down but sometimes the
pushrods can have some ridges on them from manufacturer. I think they are
Pultruded (sp?) and this can cause some slight imperfections in the surface but
I'm not sure. I have seen a few of these with the CST rods.
Never caused me any problems but I can see if the guides are curving it
could.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Next a little messy perhaps at first...Graphite dry
lube like pine wood derby wheel lube works pretty good. Squirt a little in the
tubes and the then install the pushrods. I heard of a guy doing this and he said
it made all the difference. If you have to remove a glue joint on your pushrods
to get it apart just heat the metal fitting up with a solder iron or a Bic
lighter the glue will soften and you can remove the fitting. A little sand paper
on the end where the glue was and the pushrod system will come right out of the
guides from the front. Then deal with the guides and glue the ends
back on. I recommend clean the old glue out of the hole. I use a drill...but be
careful the titanium ends are very tough and you can break off a drill bit if
you are trying to remove metal. I then use rubbing alcohol to clean it. Dry with
a bic lighter and then glue it on again. Works fine.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Next is sometimes you can get paint and crud in the
tubes at the exits and this will cause some binding. Clean out the exit tube
with a small round file....I have even used a long 2-56 pushrod threaded on one
end to plunger the tubes and clear some debris. I even saw one where the
guy used some Thin CA to attach something and it ran down the CF rod and into
the sleeves. It didn't glue it in place but it did cause quite a bit of binding.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have not heard of guys having problems. Usually
all you hear form this list and RCU is the bad stuff and rarely does the good
comes through. I get tons of emails from guys that love it. I wondering if you
try some of the fixes above and they solve your issue. I just installed this
system on friends Angel Shadow and it works great! By the way Exits on it were
about 11" forward of the elevator hinge line and they are a straight shot servo
to the control horns.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>As for weight I just stuck the plastic tube guides
on a scale and the Teflon guides as I have both. The Teflon one 4ft long
was 6grams The Plastic one 40" long was 5grams....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The 0.070" solid CF rods can't run unsupported for
the length of the fuse. They will bow up when put under load. But inside the
guides they are stiffer and more solid than any system I have ever seen or
flown. This includes cables, MK, Dave Brown Fiberglass arrow shaft( the black
one is fiberglass and not CF) And the CF rods done like the Dave
brown fork with a bushing support in the back. and supports in the
middle too. The elevators get no differential between sides when under load
and many of the other system do. This was the whole reason for using the DEPS
system. Eliminate differential side to side and have a friction free slop free
system that was light.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Troy</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=auto7832@bellsouth.net href="mailto:auto7832@bellsouth.net">Brian
Billings</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 04, 2005 11:33
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: MK Dual Elavator Bellcrank
& Pushrod?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Speaking of the CF push rod set ups, I would like
to share a little info. I just finished installing my second CF. elev. pushrod
assem. in a Impact, the first was in my Majestic. In the Majestic I got the
DEPS setup from CST seen here <A
href="http://www.cstsales.com/CCPush-rodKits.htm">http://www.cstsales.com/CCPush-rodKits.htm</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>This kit comes with a thin walled Teflon outer
case and even with a slight bow or arc in the assem. the system remains
Very friction free.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>For the Impact I purchased the kit from
Central and it comes with plastic outer cases and these were difficult to
get smooth and friction free, the slightest bend or arc made the movement very
stiff and as a matter of fact, I could not even use them and ended up using
hollow CF. rod for the outer case which worked very well but slight bends or
arcs are out of the question. Just my personal experience, yours may
differ.</FONT></DIV>
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