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<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=370323412-06022005>Success...</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=370323412-06022005></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=370323412-06022005>I
sanded about .004 off the rods starting with 320 and finishing with
600 wet. They really finish quite smooth compared to the unworked
section. I was careful not to sand the last five inches that will exit the
tail and accept the rod end.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=370323412-06022005></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN class=370323412-06022005>I then
filled the support tubes with graphite lube using a piece fuel tubing
between the bottle and support...no mess. The rods now move a lot
eaiser. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=370323412-06022005></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=370323412-06022005></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN
class=370323412-06022005></SPAN></FONT><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>-----Original
Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> discussion-request@nsrca.org
[mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Troy A.
Newman<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 04, 2005 11:02 PM<BR><B>To:</B>
discussion@nsrca.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> [SPAM] Re: DEPS (was RE: MK Dual
Elavator)<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Tom,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Have not seen this. Check out antenna tubes as
Ken Blackwell stated. I think these may work for you. I would get the ones
with the larger inside hole diameter.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Maybe some of the plastic tubes has a less
accurate inside diameter or the tolerance is a slightly different. The rods
should slide in the tubes while not attached to anything with no friction...If
hey don't then there is something wrong.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Troy</FONT></DIV>
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style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=tph1@bellsouth.net href="mailto:tph1@bellsouth.net">Tom Hinton</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 04, 2005 4:42
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: DEPS (was RE: MK Dual
Elavator)</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I put the system in my Temptation. I was lucky
in the fact that I had 2 sets of tubes at the time. One tube from each set
was tight or would bind. So I used one from each set on the Temp and it is
slick but, I don't know what to do with the other 2. I have a set of rods to
use on another plane but unless I get some "good" tubes there is no need.
Anyone else seem this?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Tom</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=kerlock@comcast.net href="mailto:kerlock@comcast.net">Mike
Hester</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 04, 2005 6:33
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: DEPS (was RE: MK Dual
Elavator)</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>HAHAHA....."roaches"...... =)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Anyway, I'm trying this system out myself in
my new roach. I installed it like you, when the fuse was still a box, and
it did take a lot of tweaking and fussing to get the friction to a level
of "acceptable". But for the way this fuse is made, it just seems like it
could be the best way to go.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>So, I'm wondering about lubricant of some
kind. Dry graphite type does sound good, and I am wondering about silicone
spray....I'm not sure about the compatibility of this stuff. It's straight
silicone, but would it gum up or react with the graphite? I should know
this, but I only use the stuff for lubricating the slides on cable/free
weight machines. It works liek a charm for that, but I'd hate to screw up
this plane.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Anybody know for sure? I know somebody
does...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>-Mike</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=js.smith@verizon.net href="mailto:js.smith@verizon.net">Scott
Smith</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 04, 2005
4:35 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> DEPS (was RE: MK Dual
Elavator)</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>DEPS is hands down the best elevator system in my opinion.
Also, I would like to thank Troy for all his efforts in getting out
a very nice, complete setup. However, I think it can be made
better with the Teflon sleeves. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>I'm doing two Central installs in a couple Patriot roaches and
I'm a little disappointed with both installs. Neither are as
friction free as last year's CST kit. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>I had the luxury of installing these while the fuse was still an
open box. My support sleeves are about 21" long and I'd say you
could measure the bend at the halfway point at less than a
1/4". The push rods hit the center of the MK arms on the elevator
(I haven't cut them to length yet.) For all practical purposes,
they are straight and dead on to the
horn. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>Yet there seems to be a lot of friction that needs to be
overcome to move the assembly. Once moving, it moves
easily. As such, I'm concerned about
centering.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>I was happy to see the graphite has worked for others and it
may be just the ticket. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=550245920-04022005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>
discussion-request@nsrca.org
[mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Troy A.
Newman<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 04, 2005 3:32 PM<BR><B>To:</B>
discussion@nsrca.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: MK Dual Elavator Bellcrank
& Pushrod?<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Brian,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>sorry to hear you had some trouble with
the guides on the DEPS. We worked pretty hard on getting the
system to be easy to install and friction free. You are correct
that any bending or curving in the system will cause it to bind up as
stated in the instructions for the DEPS. The Teflon sleeves
have their own problems and what was happening is guys would wind the
thread too tight on the Teflon sleeve and crush it. This would cause
friction points along the length of the Teflon guide even it was dead
straight. So the hard plastic guide kept this from occurring.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The key to both system is getting the
pushrods at a straight shot to the control horns. NO bends no curves.
If you install it this way it will be friction free. The right fuse
exit location is so very important. I use a 4ft long straight edge to
connect the dots from the servo connection location to the elevator
control horn. I do this on both the side of fuse For the vertical
location and angle and then the belly of the fuse for the fore and aft
exit location. I use masking tape and project the lines to where I
need to dremel the slot.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>This exit location will be very different
depending on the location of the elevator servo up front and will also
depend on the width of the fuse at the tail and where the elevator
control horns are. So you need to have both mounted so you can align
the rods to pass right by the connection points. No bending them over
to it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>A rough idea is my Supremes' have the
exits about 10.5" forward of the elevator hinge line. A narrow fuse
like a Focus of Temptation this exit will be slightly back further.
The key is getting the slots in the right spot so it doesn't bend.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>NOW some solutions I have heard of and
never tried. Take the pushrods and slightly sand them with some 320
grit. "roll" the rod in your fingers....The ideal is not to sand
diameter down but sometimes the pushrods can have some ridges on them
from manufacturer. I think they are Pultruded (sp?) and this can cause
some slight imperfections in the surface but I'm not sure. I
have seen a few of these with the CST rods. Never caused
me any problems but I can see if the guides are curving it
could.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Next a little messy perhaps at
first...Graphite dry lube like pine wood derby wheel lube works pretty
good. Squirt a little in the tubes and the then install the pushrods.
I heard of a guy doing this and he said it made all the difference. If
you have to remove a glue joint on your pushrods to get it apart just
heat the metal fitting up with a solder iron or a Bic lighter the glue
will soften and you can remove the fitting. A little sand paper on the
end where the glue was and the pushrod system will come right out of
the guides from the front. Then deal with the guides
and glue the ends back on. I recommend clean the old glue out of
the hole. I use a drill...but be careful the titanium ends are very
tough and you can break off a drill bit if you are trying to remove
metal. I then use rubbing alcohol to clean it. Dry with a bic lighter
and then glue it on again. Works fine.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Next is sometimes you can get paint and
crud in the tubes at the exits and this will cause some binding. Clean
out the exit tube with a small round file....I have even used a long
2-56 pushrod threaded on one end to plunger the tubes and clear some
debris. I even saw one where the guy used some Thin CA to attach
something and it ran down the CF rod and into the sleeves. It didn't
glue it in place but it did cause quite a bit of binding.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have not heard of guys having problems.
Usually all you hear form this list and RCU is the bad stuff and
rarely does the good comes through. I get tons of emails from guys
that love it. I wondering if you try some of the fixes above and they
solve your issue. I just installed this system on friends Angel Shadow
and it works great! By the way Exits on it were about 11" forward of
the elevator hinge line and they are a straight shot servo to the
control horns.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>As for weight I just stuck the plastic
tube guides on a scale and the Teflon guides as I have both. The
Teflon one 4ft long was 6grams The Plastic one 40" long was
5grams....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The 0.070" solid CF rods can't run
unsupported for the length of the fuse. They will bow up when put
under load. But inside the guides they are stiffer and more solid than
any system I have ever seen or flown. This includes cables, MK, Dave
Brown Fiberglass arrow shaft( the black one is fiberglass and not CF)
And the CF rods done like the Dave brown fork with a
bushing support in the back. and supports in the middle too. The
elevators get no differential between sides when under load and
many of the other system do. This was the whole reason for using the
DEPS system. Eliminate differential side to side and have a friction
free slop free system that was light.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Troy</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=auto7832@bellsouth.net
href="mailto:auto7832@bellsouth.net">Brian Billings</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 04, 2005
11:33 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: MK Dual Elavator
Bellcrank & Pushrod?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Speaking of the CF push rod set ups, I
would like to share a little info. I just finished installing my
second CF. elev. pushrod assem. in a Impact, the first was in my
Majestic. In the Majestic I got the DEPS setup from CST seen here <A
href="http://www.cstsales.com/CCPush-rodKits.htm">http://www.cstsales.com/CCPush-rodKits.htm</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>This kit comes with a thin walled
Teflon outer case and even with a slight bow or arc in the
assem. the system remains Very friction free.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>For the Impact I purchased the kit
from Central and it comes with plastic outer cases and
these were difficult to get smooth and friction free, the
slightest bend or arc made the movement very stiff and as a matter
of fact, I could not even use them and ended up using hollow CF. rod
for the outer case which worked very well but slight bends or arcs
are out of the question. Just my personal experience, yours may
differ.</FONT></DIV>
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