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<DIV><SPAN class=552175216-10022005>I did that on some race car parts, done by
Jet Hot. However those were steel headers. With the relatively low
melting temp of aluminum alloys, I'm not sure the car header technique would
work. Oil that dripped on my headers did bake on, just like on
our headers, and was NOT easy to remove. The coatings were as hard as
nails, and prevented rust, the main concern in my case.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=552175216-10022005></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=552175216-10022005>However, there are different coatings that
are put on automotive piston tops and heads to improve combustion, so there are
lower temp coatings available. How applicable those are to our application, I
don't know.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<P><SPAN lang=en-us>Jon Lowe</SPAN> <BR></P>
<P> </P>
<P><FONT face=Tahoma><FONT face=Arial></FONT>-----Original
Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> discussion-request@nsrca.org
[mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Dean
Pappas<BR><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, February 10, 2005 10:43 AM<BR><B>To:</B>
discussion@nsrca.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> RE: Header and Pipe
cleaner<BR><BR></P></FONT>
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<DIV><SPAN class=520124116-10022005>I wonder if the ceramic coating guys, the
kid brother uses for the drag car headers, can do anything with our parts.
</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=520124116-10022005>That leaves a slick surface that adds some
tiny bit of ponies.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=520124116-10022005>I'll let you know.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<P><FONT face="Times New Roman">Dean Pappas</FONT> <BR><FONT face="Times New Roman">Sr. Design Engineer</FONT> <BR><FONT face="Times New Roman">Kodeos Communications</FONT> <BR><FONT face="Times New Roman">111 Corporate Blvd.</FONT> <BR><FONT face="Times New Roman">South Plainfield, N.J. 07080</FONT> <BR><FONT face="Times New Roman">(908) 222-7817 phone</FONT> <BR><FONT face="Times New Roman">(908) 222-2392 fax</FONT> <BR><FONT face="Times New Roman">d.pappas@kodeos.com</FONT> </P>
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<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>
discussion-request@nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org]<B>On
Behalf Of </B>Rcmaster199@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, February 10,
2005 11:36 AM<BR><B>To:</B> discussion@nsrca.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Header
and Pipe cleaner<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT id=role_document face=Arial>
<DIV>Those of you that don't want to handle some of the corrosive chemicals
one could use to clean 2 stroke headers and ally pipes, my friend Gary
showed me a nontoxic method that anyone can use. Why didn't I think of
that?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Dip the header or pipe in warm water with some dishwashing liquid and
then take a Brillo or SOS (steel wool with soap) pad and scrub it. It
surprised me how quickly and easily it worked. In ten minutes I had both the
header and pipe cleaned, and the header especially was caked pretty good
with baked on oil. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I used the new Brillo with Oxy Action, but I think either will work
fine. $1 for 5 pads at the local WynnDixie. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Then worked the typical polishing with Brasso metal cleaner, and after
about 20 minutes polish job, pipe and header look better than when
new.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>MattK</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BODY></HTML>