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<DIV>Eye Bolts are my preferred method. I stay away from the Dubro threaded
couplers since the sharp edges of the attaching hole have ripped
through steel on one of my models.</DIV>
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<DIV>I still have a quantity of K-Kord, teflon coated braided kevlar for
sale.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>MattK</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 3/4/2005 8:28:43 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ronlock@comcast.net writes:</DIV>
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<DIV>The 4-40 brass connector Rick mentions works nicely and looks
slick.</DIV>
<DIV>If you don't have the special brass connector, 4-40 eye bolts
from Sullivan</DIV>
<DIV>will do nicely.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Ron Lockhart</DIV>
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Original message -------------- <BR><BR>> Good morning, John! <BR>>
<BR>> Let's see... pull-pull. The method below was taught to me by a
great pattern <BR>> flier and has worked for all my planes since. I'm
sure someone else will <BR>> post a great method for doing this with
plastic coated steel fishing leader, <BR>> but I've been using vinyl
located braided Kevlar cord and never had a <BR>> problem. <BR>>
<BR>> As always, the rudder control arms should terminate on the hinge
line. The <BR>> connections on the ends of the arm should be the diameter
of the pull pull <BR>> wheel - or arm- you use. <BR>> <BR>> I use a
single piece of .038 kevcord with ends knotted through 4-40 brass <BR>>
connectors (both from Aerospace Composite Products - ACP). The cable goes
<BR>> from one connector into the fuse, to the pul- pull wheel on the
servo - with <BR>> a turn around the set screw on the wheel, and back
down, out the fuse and to <BR>> the other connector. <BR>> Photo
available of the servo end (when using a servo arm instead of a wheel)
<BR>> is at <BR>>
http://www.angelfire.com/nj3/rixplanes/images/Elev_Rudder%20servo%20mounts.j
<BR>> pg <BR>> <BR>> Hope this helps. <BR>> <BR>> Rick
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