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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks Georgie. What was really surprising to
me is that I yanked and pulled and banged to the limits of what I felt wouldn't
hurt the engine and all my strength, vice grips, pulling and banging dents on my
work bench couldn't pull the wrist pin out. But this little gadget pulled it out
of there like it was nothing, even easier than using a drive washer puller. I
didn't even need to turn very hard on the butterfly nut. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ain't leverage grand!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Keith</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
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style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=geobet@gis.net href="mailto:geobet@gis.net">George Kennie</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, June 01, 2005 10:00
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Webra 160 help</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Great idea, Keith. Great shot too, clearly demonstrating the
application. Good work!
<P>Keith Black wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE="CITE">
<STYLE></STYLE>
<FONT face=Arial><FONT size=-1>I agree totally with Dave's statement, if
you don't use method 1 below you will damage the
conrod!</FONT></FONT> <FONT face=Arial><FONT size=-1>BTW, I have had a
couple of engines that required "some force" to remove the wrist pin, and
others that required more force than I could provide. This lead me creating
a simple tool to pry the wrist pin out. Get a long 4 mm screw and a
butterfly nut and thread it through a hard flat steel rod. Screw the
end of the 4 mm screw into the wrist pin and then turn the butterfly nut
down against the steel rod that is against the exhaust port. To
protect the side of the piston I also put popsicle sticks between the piston
and the inside wall of the crank case.</FONT></FONT> <FONT
face=Arial><FONT size=-1>This is sort of a reverse gear puller. See picture
at link below:</FONT></FONT> <FONT face=Arial><FONT size=-1><A
href="http://www.fototime.com/865BF0EA2103D32/orig.jpg">http://www.fototime.com/865BF0EA2103D32/orig.jpg</A></FONT></FONT> <FONT
face=Arial><FONT size=-1>Keith Black</FONT></FONT> ----- Original
Message -----
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<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=DaveL322@comcast.net
href="mailto:DaveL322@comcast.net">DaveL322@comcast.net</A></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org
href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, June 01, 2005 9:36
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Webra 160
help</DIV> 1st method is the way to go. If the second method
works - it is only because there is enough play in the conrod that the
conrod (and/or possibly the wrist pin, or piston) need to be
replaced. The conrod will most certainly need to be replaced if the
"pry" method is used. Dave
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Original message --------------One way, the way I have done
it. Pull the head and the sleeve, the sleeve should slide out; if
not I put a wood dowel in the exhaust port and nudge it up using a prop
installed then you can grip it and move it out. The sleeve is aluminum
so use care. Go in through the exhaust port with a narrow plier or
hemostat and remove the circlip holding the wrist pin in the piston, you
can do this in a baggy if you dont have a spare circlip cause the clip
might get away from you. Then use one of the head bolts and thread it
into the wrist pin through the exhaust port and pull the pin, this might
take some force depending on how much then engines been ran. If you can
clean any crude out thats in the pin area that might help. The piston
will come off, the rod will fall off the crank and come out the
cylinder. An alternate way that I have heard about is to remove the
sleeve and position the rod so you can pry it off the crank leaving the
piston and rod together. Brian
<P><B><I>Wes Stafford <2flyrc@3states.net></I></B> wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">Hello
All, <BR>I need help on changing the rear bearing on a Webra 160. How
do you <BR>remove the rod from the crank? <BR>Thanks, <BR>Wes
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