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<DIV>In a message dated 7/4/2005 3:35:54 PM Central Daylight Time,
adriancwong@earthlink.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>Start
with regulator flush. Set your needle valve to slight rich, then adjust the
transition needle. Don't forget, its opposite the main needle valve, clockwise
for rich, and counter for lean.<BR><BR>Good
luck.<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>-----Original Message-----<BR>From: bravo52
<bravo52@cox-internet.com><BR>Sent: Jul 4, 2005 12:32 PM<BR>To:
discussion@nsrca.org<BR>Subject: Help tuning a YS 140<BR><BR>Just started
tuning a new 140 (sport) and it hits all the numbers but the needles seem a
little off. I'm at 8200 (backed off a few clicks) on the high end and it
idles at 2200. Transition is smooth and if it sits more than a minuete
or so, it loads up. I'm using an OS F plug and 20/20 fuel. The
tank is plumbed per YS recommendations and I am using a YS fuel filter.
Here is the "seemingly" odd part, the high needle is one turn out, the
regulator is 1.25 out and the idle is 1.25 out. "Out" meaning screwed
full in. Any
thoughts.<BR>=================================================<BR>To access
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removed from the list.<BR><BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Been running the 140 Sport for a while The hole in the carb barrel
baffel for the low end needs to be drilled out to exactly 1/8"
diameter to transition properly this information came directly from
YS after drilling out the low baffel the low end needle will be open
1-1/2 to 3 turns and the main needle will be open between 1-1/4 and 1-5/8 turns.
Six or seven of them were done like this locally and they all run fine. #1-1/2
Magnum fuel (30% Nitro) 16x11 APC prop they turn between 8600 and 8800 RPM on
the ground They don't like to run rich, after setting them up we lean to
max RPM then back off one or two clicks.</DIV>
<DIV>Good Luck</DIV>
<DIV>Buddy </DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>