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<DIV> Createx isn't fuel proof. I done a protest sign on my van that I thought would just desolve off when it rained, not so it does crosslink so now I have white blotches of paint where it shid down the van off of windows so not a good surface way to slick is glass, you dye with a hair dryer if you want to work fast and do a whole plane in a few hours, the clear has to be used to fuel proof, it calls for polyu for clear, don't even try Nelson for clear they don't work together at all. Why I said could be good for EP.</DIV>
<DIV> Steve </DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=patterndude@comcast.net href="mailto:patterndude@comcast.net">Lance Van Nostrand</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A title=discussion@nsrca.org href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 12/12/2005 2:23:33 AM </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Finishing</DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>So this stuff is fuel proof? Does it mix with a hardener or just cure with heat and water evaportation? I'm skeptical that something that doesn't crosslink can be fuel proof, but maybe this stuff actually cures into polymer chains like polyU glue?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>--Lance</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=Tom.Koenig@actewagl.com.au href="mailto:Tom.Koenig@actewagl.com.au">Koenig, Tom</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=discussion@nsrca.org href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, December 11, 2005 7:45 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Finishing</DIV>
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<DIV><SPAN class=518443201-12122005><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=3>Steve/all,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=518443201-12122005><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=3></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=518443201-12122005><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=3>I have clear coated a few planes for a friend of mine who uses the createx stuff. I just used an automotive two pack clear coat. It comes up ok but is very dependent on the skill of the 'createx' applicator! If it is applied to dry and the prep work sucks-no amount of clear coat will make it look good.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=518443201-12122005><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=3>Infact I was blamed for the paint job!!! Nowadays-he takes his planes to a professional auto shop-and they charge him a packet of money with the same result. Works for me as its less possible exposure to the nasty stuff.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=518443201-12122005><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=3></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=518443201-12122005><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=3>I also believe there may be some adhesion problems with createx if not applied correctly.His stuff I've seen flake off ( i.e.; prep work!!!)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=518443201-12122005><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=3></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=518443201-12122005><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=3>My recommendation is to use the 'clear over base' system and just minimize the clear as it now no longer serves as a fuel proofing agent.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=518443201-12122005><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=3></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=518443201-12122005><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff size=3>Tom</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
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<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> discussion-request@nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request@nsrca.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Steven Maxwell<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, 12 December 2005 12:24 PM<BR><B>To:</B> discussion@nsrca.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> RE: Finishing<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
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<DIV> Nat over the last couple of years I have been playing with Createx Auto Airs <A href="http://www.autoaircolors.com/">http://www.autoaircolors.com/</A> they are water base paints that is used for airbrushing although they do need a clear coat to bring to a shine. They are extremely light and easy to use they just look dull as applied. They can be mixed and matched to anything and have 128 colors to choose from, theres a dealer you'll find on there dealer page called Dixie Art Supply in New Orleans <A href="http://www.dixieart.com/CreatexAutoAir.html">http://www.dixieart.com/CreatexAutoAir.html</A> I have only cleared with Lustre Kote which is not recomended by them, but maybe for the electrics you won't need the clear. Good luck.</DIV>
<DIV> Steve Maxwell</DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=natpenton@centurytel.net href="mailto:natpenton@centurytel.net">Nat Penton</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A title=discussion@nsrca.org href="mailto:discussion@nsrca.org">discussion@nsrca.org</A></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 12/11/2005 10:28:25 PM </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Finishing</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=2>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I don't know whether to use polyurethane, latex, watercolor or crayola. These electrics present all kinds of problems.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Nat</FONT></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE>
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