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<DIV>Check in the K Factor archives. The technique was described there a
few years ago. Obtaining the correct raw material is keyto success.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Canopies are the simplest castings that can be made from original plastic
parts. For those that are so inclined, it is the easiest to master and a good
stepping stone to more complex casting of composite parts.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Matt K</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 12/19/2005 11:06:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,
perkinsrx@centurytel.net writes:</DIV>
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<DIV><SPAN class=280504503-20122005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>I've
seen the canopy used as the mold for PVA & wax, with excellent results.
Paint on top of the pva/wax and then lay up directly onto the paint/wax/pva.
The paint will incorporate into the glass for a shine that's beautiful. And
amazingly enough for about 1/2-2/3 the weight of the
original.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=280504503-20122005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>I
did this once BUT rushed to pop it out and didn't let it cure - got
pinholes.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=280504503-20122005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>I
saw Larry Mercer do several that were perfect.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=280504503-20122005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Of
Course you DO have to get to the underside of the canopy to do this
:-))</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=280504503-20122005><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff
size=2>Eddie</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>
nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Scott
Anderson<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, December 19, 2005 9:17 PM<BR><B>To:</B>
NSRCA Mailing List<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] El Nino
canopy<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=4>PVA and wax the original then use
tooling resin for making the mold or a good epoxy and fiberglass to make the
mold then use PVA and wax on the mold and lay-up the new canopy
inside..</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=4><BR>Scott Anderson<BR>Performance
Model Aviation<BR></FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mailto:flyintexan@houston.rr.com
href="mailto:flyintexan@houston.rr.com">Mark Hunt</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org
href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org">NSRCA Mailing List</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, December 19, 2005 9:39
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] El
Nino canopy</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have seen mild success by using the
original canopy as a sort of mold....wax the inside surface then glass
it....hopefully it can then be popped out......will certainly have a few
pinholes.... I saw this actually work quite well to replicate
canopies for a widebody 60.....the glass ones were light
too.</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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